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Author Topic: Monster 696/659 Clip ons NO RISE  (Read 21350 times)
TealCandy
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« on: December 26, 2012, 03:20:26 AM »

First post here on the forum, I know it probably has been discussed before but I haven't been able to find much information on the no rise side.. I basically have ordered the parts I think are needed for the project, I might run into a few difficulties that I'm surely unaware of, so I'm just asking anyone knowledgeable to warn me of these involved with solely the no rise clip ons (I'm 6'3 so please refrain from telling me it will be too uncomfortable). Also I was wondering about the mirrors, will the resovoir spacer kit replace the mirror mounts? Requiring me to buy barend mirrors (crg lanesplitter).. or will I be able to keep the mounts as the spacer will fit in the middle or some sort and purchase some rizoma mirrors? I would really like to make this happen.. I am just a bit lost though.

The parts I have on order are as follows:

Driven 50mm Clip ons
Speedymoto top triple
Resovoir spacer set from Monsterparts

Thank you in advance for any replies.
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« Reply #1 on: December 26, 2012, 03:42:16 AM »

Welcome  waytogo

Depends if your Driven clipons are front mount or side mount.... you may run into some interference issues with the headlight. 

Also, mounting the stock headlight with your Speedymoto top triple isnt difficult, but its not plug 'n' play either.... you may be interested in this  >>  http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=21407.msg447867#msg447867  <<  And yes, I know you're not interested in riser-clipons, but the top triple headlight mounting will be the same  Smiley.

Your stock mirror mounts can be retained, the reservoir spacers fit between the two stock mounting parts.

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« Reply #2 on: December 26, 2012, 03:50:05 AM »

Yep, that pretty much covers it all.  One thing about the spacers, they mess with your clutch throw...being 6'3" you most likely wont have an issue.  When I did it, I adjusted my lever in to where it was comfortable...and then the neutral interlock switch no longer made, so if I stall, I have to muck around finding neutral in traffic.

(Incidentally, this winters projects will have me with a set of ASV C5 levers looking for a new home.  Black w/ red adjustes, full legnth...Just saying  waytogo)
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CW/evotech tail tidy, lightwereks integrated tail light, CRG Arrow bar end mirrors, Duc.ee solenoid eliminator & 696 midpipe, sans charcoal canister, pileon grab bars, Arrow Dark slipons (sans dB killers), Rizoma Zero11's, Rizoma Lux grips, Rizoma rearsets, Rizoma gas cap, 1098R Ohlins forks, IMA Triples, Galfer wave rotors, Brembo radial masters, Rizoma reservoirs, Ohlins DU737, Rizoma bars, 15t AFAM front and 41t supersprox rear sprocket with EK MVXC chain.
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« Reply #3 on: December 26, 2012, 03:57:23 AM »

Just a heads up about the profile of the two top triples...

 - your factory triple is curved, which means it grips the fork lower than the SpeedyMoto will. That's probably not an issue on the 696 as it seems to have available fork tube space.

IMO - at your (and my) height, try to mount the mirrors high and forward (easier with new adjustable ones) to minimize the head movement required to look in the mirrors.

Good luck - it's going to feel very different, but is a good mod waytogo
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Raux
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« Reply #4 on: December 26, 2012, 04:12:14 AM »

IF you can replace the driven bars with woodcraft bars, woodcraft has a 1" longer bar that will fit the stock coffin masters with no spacer.
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TealCandy
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« Reply #5 on: December 26, 2012, 04:28:38 AM »

Wow! Thanks for the welcome and speedy replies, can't even begin to express my thanks. You guys have cleared everything up as I was still in the dark on a couple of things.. I have ordered the front mount clip ons from driven so that should go well, and if for some reason I end up with an issue with the spacers I can definitely consider woodcraft. I kinda figured I'd hit the headlight issue, as for the mirrors and levers that should go fine too I already have a set of ASV shortys and also ran into the neutral killswitch issue, kind of annoying though my fingers are long enough to adjust the clicker far enough outward to only just click it with the clutch fully pulled in, leaving the tips of my fingers to work the clutch.. but this hopefully with the spacers will be solved by a couple of mm? lol. Might try get a set of rizoma circuit 851's now that I'm not stuck with barends. I ride in alot of heavy traffic but alot for fun too so I was a little bit discouraged on them altough the CRG LS looked pretty sweet.

Thanks so much guys, Hope you had a great Christmas/holidays and enjoy the new year to come. Will let you know how it goes and post up some pics of the install, cheers!
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« Reply #6 on: December 26, 2012, 06:04:06 AM »

I have the CRG Arrow bar ends, both with clipons and the factory bent bars I was able to split lanes with out any issue. (most of the time  Undecided)  They are actually a lot more clear and stable too, the micky mouse ears had a tendancy of vibrating like mad at speed, and also, I dont particularly care to stare at my shoulders all the time.
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2011 Monster 796 ABS

CW/evotech tail tidy, lightwereks integrated tail light, CRG Arrow bar end mirrors, Duc.ee solenoid eliminator & 696 midpipe, sans charcoal canister, pileon grab bars, Arrow Dark slipons (sans dB killers), Rizoma Zero11's, Rizoma Lux grips, Rizoma rearsets, Rizoma gas cap, 1098R Ohlins forks, IMA Triples, Galfer wave rotors, Brembo radial masters, Rizoma reservoirs, Ohlins DU737, Rizoma bars, 15t AFAM front and 41t supersprox rear sprocket with EK MVXC chain.
TealCandy
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« Reply #7 on: December 26, 2012, 09:15:20 AM »

I have the CRG Arrow bar ends, both with clipons and the factory bent bars I was able to split lanes with out any issue. (most of the time  Undecided)  They are actually a lot more clear and stable too, the micky mouse ears had a tendancy of vibrating like mad at speed, and also, I dont particularly care to stare at my shoulders all the time.

I never noticed they could be folded in, they definitely look great. Do you think that these type of mirrors would limit the steering even more? Considering I will probably loose quite a bit with no rise depending on the sweep? Also would you happen to know if it is possible to keep the headlight fairing in place once everything's installed? If not its a nice oppurtunity to convert to carbon on the dash.
« Last Edit: December 26, 2012, 09:54:34 AM by TealCandy » Logged

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« Reply #8 on: December 26, 2012, 10:08:19 AM »

Speaking from the woodcraft 3" bars that I currently have. (using the monsterparts coffin spacers) Bikini fairing hits the brake and clutch banjo bolts.  if you move them out and dont use the coffin spacers, you might be able to swing it.  no issues at all with the mirrors as far as turning radius, but you will lose a little by going to the clipons since you have to adjust the steering stops out to prevent contact with the tank.

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2011 Monster 796 ABS

CW/evotech tail tidy, lightwereks integrated tail light, CRG Arrow bar end mirrors, Duc.ee solenoid eliminator & 696 midpipe, sans charcoal canister, pileon grab bars, Arrow Dark slipons (sans dB killers), Rizoma Zero11's, Rizoma Lux grips, Rizoma rearsets, Rizoma gas cap, 1098R Ohlins forks, IMA Triples, Galfer wave rotors, Brembo radial masters, Rizoma reservoirs, Ohlins DU737, Rizoma bars, 15t AFAM front and 41t supersprox rear sprocket with EK MVXC chain.
Raux
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« Reply #9 on: December 26, 2012, 10:44:08 AM »

zero rise doesn't limit the steering as much as they come back below the tank line, even with the frame
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TealCandy
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« Reply #10 on: December 26, 2012, 05:42:09 PM »

zero rise doesn't limit the steering as much as they come back below the tank line, even with the frame

So are you guys basically saying I wont lose as much steering as someone using a rise set? If so great! I thought It would limit it further using the no rise.
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TealCandy
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« Reply #11 on: December 27, 2012, 12:26:42 AM »

Ok all of the parts are on their way Grin So now its time think about the installing procedure.. Is it worth having a shop do it? The most I've ever done is replaced regular handlebars to drag bars on a vtr250 and a slip on exhaust. What will I need to do this? tools, stands or anything.. I'd rather do it myself as I have the time and would be a great opportunity to get to know a little bit more about my bike.

Again thanks in advance for any replies.
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Raux
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« Reply #12 on: December 27, 2012, 12:37:40 AM »

actually this is a pretty easy procedure.
but you might want to pick up a small torque wrench.

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TealCandy
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« Reply #13 on: December 27, 2012, 12:38:51 AM »

actually this is a pretty easy procedure.
but you might want to pick up a small torque wrench.



Awesome! Does the front end actually need to be suspended off the ground?
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Raux
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« Reply #14 on: December 27, 2012, 12:59:55 AM »

not off the ground, but you can eliminate some of the flex by putting the bike on a rear stand and a lift under the motor if you don't have an under the triple front lift.
but i've done it a couple of time with the bike just on a rear stand.
the bottom triple keeps the forks aligned and as long as you aren't sitting on the bike they will hold the forks fine.

you may need a rubber mallet to convince the top triple off, but no damage will occur.

dont forgot the bolt on the center of the top triple. I loosen that one first as you have to turn the bars to get to it.

the headlight is just the two lower nuts on the lower triple and then you lift it off the top triple rubber mounts. the speedymoto probably needs those parts, so i would mount them on it before installing it on the bike. I hate working upside down.

for the controls you'll need to decide to drill the bars or file off the control nubs. I filed and then use grip tape or electrical tape to stop them from spinning on the bars. it's not perfect but I didn't want to screw up the drilling (and IMO putting holes in bars that are aluminum and have all your forward weight on them is asking for trouble)

when remounting the top triple you may find the fork a bike offcenter, that's ok, just use a little leverage to help them center on the holes and then slide (encourage with mallet) the triple down. (don't forget to open the clamps a bit, test them individually first)

it's pretty straight forward stuff.

don't tighten the clipons/controls until you have the top triple securely mounted and you can sit on the bike again.
it helps to have a friend. you have the bike on the rear stand. you sit on the bike like you are riding and find the most comfortable position for everything. Then your friend tightens them in place. after that turn the bars all the way left and right and adjust your steering stops on the lower triple.

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