Trouble Getting Going

[ChrisK]

Does "clagging" mean too rich?

[koko64]

Yeah, too rich and fouled. I didn't get 100 yards up the street. On the other hand, too lean on the main jets and needles will make the bike weak or even die in the ass from 1/2 throttle upwards. If the needle is lean, but the main jet ok, you push through the weak midrange but come good as you open her right up.
Best to get a local baseline from speeddog as we use kangaroo fuel. Then again, the small valve/small cam heads of the W motor may require a different setting. Even with the same mods, every bike, (and location) can be different. You get a ballpark setting and fine tune from there.

[ChrisK]

Okay, I'm waiting for Nick to reply with his recommendations for them.

On this website, on the 4th line it says they come "prejetted to your application."
http://www.ducatitech.com/2v/fcr_faq.html

Sounds to me like "prejetted universally for carbureted Ducatis" would be more appropriate.

[Ddan]

Okay, I'm waiting for Nick to reply with his recommendations for them.

On this website, on the 4th line it says they come "prejetted to your application."
http://www.ducatitech.com/2v/fcr_faq.html

Sounds to me like "prejetted universally for carbureted Ducatis" would be more appropriate.

Have you tried calling Chris and explaining your problem?  He's usually pretty helpful

[koko64]

When I got mine from Chris, I also ordered a range of slow and main jets to try as I'm not lucky.
Some people throw 'em on and are happy, but my ported, hi comp, enlarged open airbox 900 likes small slow jets. I'm running 50s and could go 48s! On other 900s I've only gone as low as 52s.
Then there was a hi comp 900 with FCR39s that wanted 62s with pods and 58s with a modified airbox. It's a funny ol' world. One thing's for sure, once in the ballpark FCRs give you another bike.
If you are near speeddog, you could give him the bike. Sometimes an overtime shift to pay for it is quicker than doing it yourself, but if you do it yourself you learn more (usually the hard way).

[koko64]

Have you tried calling Chris and explaining your problem?  He's usually pretty helpful

+1 He's a good bloke.

[Langanobob]

Have you checked the compression?  It's easy enough to check and it will at least eliminate one more possible cause.   I've seen engines with poor compression that would start and run but not make any power.

Bob

[ChrisK]

Here's what one of the plugs looks like, brand new yesterday.

[ChrisK]

I don't have the right fitting at the moment to do a compression test.

[koko64]

Just to confirm (due to computer image), is that black porcelain with white patches?
Is it white deep down on the porcelain?
Also the plug base/rim is clean?

Firstly, because it's easy, you could change main jets and see how she runs.

[Howie]

Have you checked the compression?  It's easy enough to check and it will at least eliminate one more possible cause.   I've seen engines with poor compression that would start and run but not make any power.

Bob

Yep, should have included that.

Yeah, I believe I have all of that right.

Is it possible my fuel pump isn't keeping up with the carbs? I can jab at the throttle because it has fuel in the line, but then when I try to hold throttle at one position or accelerate slowly it cuts out.

A reason I don't think that's the problem is I can repeatedly jab at the throttle, on off on off.

Yes it is, you use much more fuel at load. Opening the throttle no load less of a problem.  A restriction can do the same.  Jetting from Chris should be close enough for the bike to run at least well enough to get you down the block. 

Oh, i might be wrong a little on the numbers if they change from year to year, but, as Brad Black also said, first dot TDC, second dot following shortly, idle, third dot over 1500-1700 RPM full advance.  No advance knob needed.

[koko64]

If the motor is ok and the fuel pump is ok, and if I'm seeing the plugs correctly, you could be too rich down low and very lean up higher. If the fuel pump is failing that would also cause the mid range top end lean condition.
Changing the main jets is easy via the float bowl drain bolt at the bottom and once you have some specs from speeddog you can try it. Slow jets can be accessed via removing the float bowl, fiddly but doable and needles via the top of the carbs which will be more involved.

How do the plugs look to you Howie?

[ChrisK]

Just to confirm (due to computer image), is that black porcelain with white patches?
Is it white deep down on the porcelain?
Also the plug base/rim is clean?

Firstly, because it's easy, you could change main jets and see how she runs.

It's white porcelain with brown/black patches. Yes, deep down its white. The plug's base has a small amount of an oil-looking residue on it.

Changing jets isn't easy because I'd have to order them. Easy is stuff I can do right here right now!

[koko64]

From way over here my guess is too big slow jets and too small main jets. It starts too rich and leans out as the throttle is opened. Howie may have a better computer screen.
A crook fuel pump can do also that.

[Howie]

If the motor is ok and the fuel pump is ok, and if I'm seeing the plugs correctly, you could be too rich down low and very lean up higher. If the fuel pump is failing that would also cause the mid range top end lean condition.
Changing the main jets is easy via the float bowl drain bolt at the bottom and once you have some specs from speeddog you can try it. Slow jets can be accessed via removing the float bowl, fiddly but doable and needles via the top of the carbs which will be more involved.

How do the plugs look to you Howie?

I didn't comment on plug color because I'm not sure at this point what it could mean since carbon from start up might not have burnt off and the engine has not run down the road, though i must say i don't like what seems like extreme white on the electrodes.  Maybe a good "shade tree" test could be bypass the pump, fill the tank and see how it runs on gravity feed?