putting my bike together...please help me out along the way..

[oldndumb]

I know it can be a pain to stop, take pics, and then post them, so hats off to you for sharing the details of your build.   

[koko64]

How's it going?

[Rudemouthsky]

I figured out my own question about the generator and rectifier conundrum. There are 2 wires with female ends exiting the generator cover. As I understand it, I can connect 2/3 to the rectifier without regard to which and where, and all will be peachy.

Koko: if you get a moment, could you snap a photo of the fuel line plumbing from your FCR's? I think I got it right...but not sure.

I got this gorgeous and super nice Made In Italy fuel hose by Arietta. Translucent green and the proper metric sizes for the inlet line and output from the petcock. I'm using a clamptite tool and stainless wire to clamp everything. Trying to be super meticulous about every last detail of this bike. Any suggestions on a clean and secure way to blank off the extra fuel return on my injected tank? Piece of hose plus a screw is a bit janky...

Once I get this kickstand switch sorted I just need to:
- clean up and tie up the wiring
- install and bleed the rear brake
- clamp all the fuel and vaccum hoses
- wire up the charging system
- quadruple check torque and loctite all critical nuts (axles especially)
- wire up the Ignitech and tidy up the plug wires

I will have questions regarding my swingarm pivot shim job, alignment, and wheel spacers. I used ones supplied my Carrozzeria and they "seem" right...but would prefer to post high res photos and get several pairs of talented eyes on them before I go flying down the highway. I'm quite a bit paranoid about this for obvious reasons.

[koko64]

Are you running the double outlet Pentagon vacuum pump or going with the electric in tank pump?

[Rudemouthsky]

Are you running the double outlet Pentagon vacuum pump or going with the electric in tank pump?

Pentagon. But I have the aftermarket Mikuni non OE with 3 outlets (still high output) looks identical only black. I'll be running a 2-1 Y fitting (wish I had split singles - would be perfect for that!)

[koko64]

I've not run one of them (dual outlet). It should be ok with the high flow float needles in the FCRs. Wonder what the flow rate is for each one? Half the OEM (which someone here found flowed heaps)? If its not and they flood a lot, then run a relief return line to the tank return inlet. So another Y fitting near the carb. Can the return inlet be tapped and fitted with the correct hardware? I'm not averse to a short hose and alloy fitting that looks the part , or a boot sturdy and fuel proof enough to clamp.

[Rudemouthsky]

I've not run one of them (dual outlet). It should be ok with the high flow float needles in the FCRs. Wonder what the flow rate is for each one? Half the OEM (which someone here found flowed heaps)? If its not and they flood a lot, then run a relief return line to the tank return inlet. So another Y fitting near the carb. Can the return inlet be tapped and fitted with the correct hardware? I'm not averse to a short hose and alloy fitting that looks the part , or a boot sturdy and fuel proof enough to clamp.

Can you draw me a diagram to give me a better idea of what you're describing?

The fuel pump I have flows 65 lph. That's heaps. Gotta be at least the same as the OE pump?

That's a damn good idea...tap that return inlet and plug with a stainless cap screw and crush washer. Thanks.

[koko64]

The carbed SS has a Y fitting at the carb hose feeding it with a line back to the tank. One in, and one out for the excess. The two parts of the Y point back, one in, one out, the pointy end to the carb. Wasn't 100% successful, still had some carb flooding, but it's gotta help, and that was with the electric oem pump on my Superlight. If the vacuum pump flows that amount between the two outlets combined, then you should be ok. You still have the option to run a return line should flooding be an issue in case the pump is 65 Lph each outlet (I doubt it). I'd say it's combined at a guess as that's what the OEM pump flows. Being a pulse pump you should be ok without the return line rather than a constant flow type.

[Howie]

Here's the wire in question:





I don't believe my 01 had that wire. There are 3 relays under the seat, as on 01 carbed bikes. The rest of the loom is similar to 99< Carbed Monsters. Bike is in neutral. Kill switch is connected to a plug on the loom labeled with the letter "C";

I have not a clue what that wire is or where it goes.  Maybe someone with an older bike could look at theirs?  The '99 had the suicide kickstand (retracted when you lifted the bike to ride off), the switch just operating the light on the dash.  Neutral switch just operated the light.  The three relays on the '01 were main, safety (kickstand) and flasher.  The small one would be the safety relay.  The '99 should just have the main and flasher.



Here are the male outputs on my Ricks rectifier:



See you got that one sorted out.  Got a '99 wiring diagram?



Thanks Howie.

[Rudemouthsky]

Howie

Re: relays- that's what I mentioned is odd about this harness as its like a hybrid of 99< and 01 carby harnesses. It has the 3 relays of my old 01 M750 but most of the other features (ground strap arrangements and sidestand safety switch) of the 99<. The sidestand switch is most certainly the same with the exception of that additional wire. The relay (again, I have 3) makes an audible click when I raise the stand and jumping the wires together allows the bike to start. Unfortunately the parts diagram isn't any help as it shows the setup of the 99< bikes. This harness came straight off a low mileage 2000 M600. Its truly a black sheep. I think I have it licked but that extra wire is bugging me.

[Howie]

Not sure if the 2000 had has the safety side stand set up, but I think so.  Anyway, if the bike now starts and you are happy with the function or lack of the safety system I would document your set up for the future and call it a day on that one.

The extra wire?  Everything work?  I would neatly tape it out of the way in case I found a need for it in the future.  A Haynes manual might help you since it has all the Monster wiring diagrams, in an easy to read format too.

[Rudemouthsky]

Following the instructions found on this forum for connecting the older 2 wire generator to newer 3 wire rectifiers, I've arbitrarily picked 2 to use and blanked off the third. Ignore how ugly my soldering and heatshrink job looks; the connections are solid. But I'm concerned I used wire that is too thin for the job...the wires exiting the gen cover aren't exactly robust so I figured I could use what I had laying around that had the right bullet connectors. Do you guys think this 16 ga wire will be a problem and I should re-do with beefier wire, or am I ok?

Once again the patience with my fumbling and bumbling is highly appreciated. Particularly you, Howie.

[Howie]

Assuming your connections are good all should be good unless you are adding notable length to the wires.  Are you eliminating a connector?  Why are you adding wire?  I personally like having a connector for diagnosis.  On the flip, it is a problem spot.  Less so if you use a weatherpack connector like these  http://www.whiteproducts.com/connectors.shtml

Fumbling and bumbling?  Nah, you are doing great!  I admire you for your courage and ambition.  Bike is looking great.

[Rudemouthsky]

Ah, thanks for the link. I need to assemble a nice collection of weatherpack/superseal connectors.

Just noticed I forgot the photo in my above post;



I pillaged the wiring from my parts bike, didn't want to hardwire it. I also didn't want to clip the female bullet connectors from my generator.

[Rudemouthsky]

It stumped Howie and Koko which isn't easy;



Runs off the same subharness as the coil and ignitor wiring. 2 small lugs with smallish wire, maybe 14-16ga. Doesn't appear in any parts manual I've scoured.

thx