SS Bolts = THE BOMB

[TAftonomos]

I'll be putting together Ti "kits" in my ebay store, although I'm not going to be able to keep a lot of it in stock.  It's too much $$$ outlay to keep 2-3K worth of Ti in stock, but it's only 2 days from me.

I'll probably break it up into small "kits"  Clutch, subframe (SBK), Forks, Etc....

[Popeye the Sailor]

FYI from the engineering standpoint:

Titanium bolts on your bike: from an assembly perspective, just bling. You do not gain anything from them. The ounces you save would be quicker and cheaper if you just went on a diet.


Stainless steel bolts: Not really all that much stronger than good grade 8 bolts. But a whole lot more expensive. Tits on a bull as well.


So the only real benefit from either is being able to say "I have titanium/stainless bolts on my bike".



I *really* hope that doesn't come up in conversation that often.

[Howley]

well I can tell you right now they are stronger than aluminium.

[He Man]

FYI from the engineering standpoint:

Titanium bolts on your bike: from an assembly perspective, just bling. You do not gain anything from them. The ounces you save would be quicker and cheaper if you just went on a diet.


Stainless steel bolts: Not really all that much stronger than good grade 8 bolts. But a whole lot more expensive. Tits on a bull as well.


So the only real benefit from either is being able to say "I have titanium/stainless bolts on my bike".



I *really* hope that doesn't come up in conversation that often.

In that case, id just go stainless steel for its corrosion resistance. (bike is riden in salted roads in the winter season)

[supakpow2]

Will either of the monsterparts sets work for  2005 S2R 800? I live in Hawaii and the corrosion even on plated parts is crazy.
 I would love to have SS bolt set for entire bike.

[Pedro-bot]

Get your SS bolts from here http://www.desmoparts.com/

Chris sells them at a great price, is super easy to deal with and they ship FAST! 

[SP3]

I had a full aluminium bolt kit on my bike, and it was shit. I broke so many bolts just nipping them up, and stripped out so many heads. I finally got an SS bolt kit and it is so good to be able to tighten them up without worrying about breaking them. They look hot too.

Highly recommended
 

You must consider the application before throwing aluminum hardware at something. It should never be used for a structural point since both its shear and tensile strengths are far below what is needed. Al would be good for the windscreen, fairing, fenders, etc. where the torque required to clamp the part is very low and there is little/no bending and shear load. It sounds like you used them somewhere they should not have been or are overtightening them way beyond what even the steel should have been. That said, the stainless kits are nice from aesthetic point of view and also when considering repeated disassembly/re-assembly (aluminum won't last nearly as long).

It was torqued by ducati. Tell them to stop juicing! i was trying to get them off!

No hex key would work. So i drilled it out and tapped a flathead into it. I broke the bit (steel bit) it also stripped my T-30. made it look like a helical gear. finnally we cut a massive slit on it, and  hammered it with a screw driver. It started digging into the head (yes i tried all sorts of angles!) so i suggested fire (thats what i use to break of old rusty water pipes) and he had one of those mini butane torches, so we heated it up for a good minute and BAM, they broke loose.

If you ever run into this problem again, drill the head off of the bolt. After the part is out of the way, the rest of the bolt is exposed and you have more options to remove the rest (Vice Grips, slot for screwdriver, etc) and many times will turn with just your fingers.

Stock botls are alluminum or brass, or something very soft. Stainless Steel is very tough and is alot less prone to stripping. If your going to work on your bike, you should defintely buy this kit and replace bolts as you get to them as time will eventually soften them up, and you will more than likely strip them in the years to come. Plus they stay shinny and are corrosion resistant.

The stock bolts are plain steel and are not case hardened very deep if at all. Also, bolts (any material) don't soften over time. The only thing that will do that is to anneal them.

Stainless steel is cheaper, but i dont think you save much weight from SS and titanium.....What about the weight savings? probably marginal at best and not noticeable since ....... the screws are  very close to the center of the wheel. If your bike is still fresh, id suggest you take them off NOW and repalce them lol

Ti weighs roughly 40% less than most steels so the total weight savings for a whole bike is about the same as if you had a healthy dump before a ride. The suggestion to change the bolts now (while "new") is a valid point. Or, simply removing them and re-assembling with antiseize and correct torque is an option (what I do).

well I can tell you right now they are stronger than aluminium.

See my first comment on proper application.

[c_rex]

Ti weighs roughly 40% less than most steels so the total weight savings for a whole bike is about the same as if you had a healthy dump before a ride. The suggestion to change the bolts now (while "new" is a valid point. Or, simply removing them and re-assembling with antiseize and correct torque is an option (what I do).
See my first comment on proper application.

lmao... heading to the loo.   

[TAftonomos]

FYI from the engineering standpoint:
Titanium bolts on your bike: from an assembly perspective, just bling. You do not gain anything from them. The ounces you save would be quicker and cheaper if you just went on a diet.
Stainless steel bolts: Not really all that much stronger than good grade 8 bolts. But a whole lot more expensive. Tits on a bull as well.
So the only real benefit from either is being able to say "I have titanium/stainless bolts on my bike".
I *really* hope that doesn't come up in conversation that often.

Some people want them, others don't.  For those that are weight loss fanatics like me, everything adds up.  8 ounces here, and 16 ounces there ends up being a few pounds.  If you appy that to the entire bike, you end up with something much lighter weight.  Nice thing about Ti bolts is you can do it a small bit at a time, here or there.  Why would I use a stainless bolt when I can buy the same fastener for just a smidge more in Ti?  Remember, I'm crazy...I want to have a set of Mag triples made for my monster to drop weight.

Rotating weight is where it's best spent though, or at the front or rear ends unsprung.

It all adds up (or doesn't)

[CairnsDuc]

I would love to replace the bolts that hold the Brake Calipers in place, The heads on those are so soft, the rear brake caliper already has a pretty sad looking bolt, I've had a look at quite a few sites and everybody sells the bolts that hold the caliper in together, but not the bolts that attach the caliper to the bike.

Can someone advise if anyone sells those, or correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.

[Capo]

I would love to replace the bolts that hold the Brake Calipers in place, The heads on those are so soft, the rear brake caliper already has a pretty sad looking bolt, I've had a look at quite a few sites and everybody sells the bolts that hold the caliper in together, but not the bolts that attach the caliper to the bike.

Can someone advise if anyone sells those, or correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.

Pro Bolt

[He Man]

Why would I use a stainless bolt when I can buy the same fastener for just a smidge more in Ti? 

It all adds up (or doesn't)

Where can you get Ti screws for a smudge more? I looked everywhere. the cost of Ti 6n-al is usually 5x the price of SS. i can get SS m8x1.25x20mm for less than .85 cent a bolt, less than .30cent if i buy a pack of 100. For Ti Bolts, they are anywhere from $5.00 a bolt for generic titanium to $20 for the higher quality stuff.

Any kit of 6N-al Ti bolts for the front rotors will run you upwards of $50. TPO, Motowheels, yoyodyne, all of then are about $120. This is for 12 bolts. If you find an outside source, it can cost as little as $60 for 12 screws.


SP3, I did drill the head out on 1 of them. It didnt budge. i ended up cutting slots into the head and using it as point of leverage. The bike is an outdoors year round bike, so it gets ridden in nasty conditions all year round.Either way, if you work on your bike, or ride in harsh conditions, SS bolts are a cheap way to keep your bike's maintence down (aka not having to spend 3 hours to remove screws)

Good link chill, very good kit that fits DS1000s!

[monsta]

It was torqued by ducati. Tell them to stop juicing! i was trying to get them off!

No hex key would work. So i drilled it out and tapped a flathead into it. I broke the bit (steel bit) it also stripped my T-30. made it look like a helical gear. finnally we cut a massive slit on it, and  hammered it with a screw driver. It started digging into the head (yes i tried all sorts of angles!) so i suggested fire (thats what i use to break of old rusty water pipes) and he had one of those mini butane torches, so we heated it up for a good minute and BAM, they broke loose.

probably had loctite used on it. the heat softens it...

I just get my stainless bolts from the local stainless bolt shop..  I remove the bolts I want, measure em, write down the sizes I need and every month or so visit and get whats on the list. 

I then put a bit of a radius on the head of capscrews and polish em...  makes a big difference...

some sort of anti seize should be used when using SS in ally,  They are mortal enemies and will eventually lock together and youll strip the a,lly thread when you try n get em out.

[SP3]

SP3, I did drill the head out on 1 of them. It didnt budge. i ended up cutting slots into the head and using it as point of leverage. The bike is an outdoors year round bike, so it gets ridden in nasty conditions all year round.Either way, if you work on your bike, or ride in harsh conditions, SS bolts are a cheap way to keep your bike's maintence down (aka not having to spend 3 hours to remove screws)

So you did NOT remove the head of the bolt when you drilled it? That is what I meant if there was any confusion.

[Howley]

You must consider the application before throwing aluminum hardware at something. It should never be used for a structural point since both its shear and tensile strengths are far below what is needed. Al would be good for the windscreen, fairing, fenders, etc. where the torque required to clamp the part is very low and there is little/no bending and shear load. It sounds like you used them somewhere they should not have been or are overtightening them way beyond what even the steel should have been. That said, the stainless kits are nice from aesthetic point of view and also when considering repeated disassembly/re-assembly (aluminum won't last nearly as long).

See my first comment on proper application.

I had an aftermarket ali kit, it was on the bike when I got it. I got the SS kit from Monsterparts.