Please help me out when I get stuck...much appreciated
put the swingarm on and shim it without the frame in the way.
put the frame on the engine then lay out the loom and be prepared to lift the frame again to route stuff.
Quote from: brad black on March 16, 2015, 04:12:36 AM
put the swingarm on and shim it without the frame in the way.
put the frame on the engine then lay out the loom and be prepared to lift the frame again to route stuff.
shims on the right hand/clutch side, right?
thx Brad
Pretty sure one thick shim goes on the left and then you add shims to the other side to remove clearance.
Do you have a case of beer?
Taps and dies.
Pics and notes for reference documentation so that you don't lie in bed at 3:00 A.M. wondering if you torqued that now inaccessible fastener. :)
Quote from: oldndumb on March 16, 2015, 07:13:40 AM
Pics and notes for reference documentation so that you don't lie in bed at 3:00 A.M. wondering if you torqued that now inaccessible fastener. :)
fantastic advice
Quote from: ducpainter on March 16, 2015, 04:59:08 AM
Pretty sure one thick shim goes on the left and then you add shims to the other side to remove clearance.
Good to know, thank you Nate.
Quote from: ajw85 on March 16, 2015, 06:25:04 AM
Do you have a case of beer?
Not a beer guy, I'm a rum snob. And yes I have a bottle of Bayou - for afterwards :P
Cycle Cat frame sliders aren't gonna work. For some reason the frame boss on the left side of the bike tapers and the aluminum coupling nut won't go in. Wasted 2 hours dicking with it. No problem with the other side at all. Oddball frame?
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150316_170204_zps1qgsal0i.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150316_170204_zps1qgsal0i.jpg.html)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150316_170330_zpswylkdtue.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150316_170330_zpswylkdtue.jpg.html)
So now I gotta wait for a motor mount bolt to arrive before I do anything else :'(
Haha I've just realized I have a 98 parts bike with the correct bolt. Game on!
[popcorn]
Rather looking forward to this!
FINALLY [popcorn]
Can you set up a camera and then timelapse this into a video? Would be cool for us. Probably suck for you, 'cause, ya know, extra work. But again, cool for us.
I'm a bit stuck here...
Where the billet suspension hoop and shock knuckle join up, the sleeve that passes through the needle bearing is interfering. What I need to know is, is it supposed to be a mother make the beast with two backser to coax in, or should I file a bit off the sides to make it work?
I really don't think I can get it in otherwise.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/2015-03-17%2015.41.58_zpskyabqgtv.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/2015-03-17%2015.41.58_zpskyabqgtv.jpg.html)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150317_154015_zps472ufgeo.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150317_154015_zps472ufgeo.jpg.html)
If you remove any material be careful. You want as little clearance as possible while still allowing assembly.
You also need to keep the end of the spacer square.
Have you taken a measurement of the two dimensions?
Quote from: ducpainter on March 17, 2015, 01:03:09 PM
If you remove any material be careful. You want as little clearance as possible while still allowing assembly.
You also need to keep the end of the spacer square.
Have you taken a measurement of the two dimensions?
Do you mean of the i.d of the knuckle mounting points of the hoop and the length of the shaft that rides on the needle bearings? Yeah...was almost .5 mm, more than I felt was reasonable to pound it in. I carefully filed a few tenths of a mm from each side until I was just able to gently tap it in with a mallet...I think all is well.
Quote from: 1.21GW on March 17, 2015, 11:08:35 AM
Can you set up a camera and then timelapse this into a video? Would be cool for us. Probably suck for you, 'cause, ya know, extra work. But again, cool for us.
Even with a fast time lapse you would be subjected to hours of me staring, scatching my head, and doings things over multiple times lol
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on March 17, 2015, 01:46:00 PM
Even with a fast time lapse you would be subjected to hours of me staring, scatching my head, and doings things over multiple times lol
That's where the entertainment comes from. [drink]
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on March 17, 2015, 01:36:09 PM
Do you mean of the i.d of the knuckle mounting points of the hoop and the length of the shaft that rides on the needle bearings? Yeah...was almost .5 mm, more than I felt was reasonable to pound it in. I carefully filed a few tenths of a mm from each side until I was just able to gently tap it in with a mallet...I think all is well.
It does need to move. The original hoop didn't require a hammer did it?
Quote from: howie on March 17, 2015, 04:01:34 PM
It does need to move. The original hoop didn't require a hammer did it?
Actually the spacer doesn't move. It's locked in place. The original hoop is sheet metal and will flex enough to lock the spacer. The needle bearings will provide the movement.
If someone has a spare hoop I'd be curious to see what that i.d measures out to. I sold both my spares.
Quote from: ducpainter on March 17, 2015, 04:52:37 PM
Actually the spacer doesn't move. It's locked in place. The original hoop is sheet metal and will flex enough to lock the spacer. The needle bearings will provide the movement.
Got it.
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on March 17, 2015, 05:02:23 PM
If someone has a spare hoop I'd be curious to see what that i.d measures out to. I sold both my spares.
Dp is correct, the spacer should not move. Leave it.
My next potentially stoopid question, or evidence of something stoopid I've done..
I'm concerned that this billet hoop is too tall for my Bitubo shock. I can barely move the swingarm up and out of the way of the front sprocket before I run out of room. It looks like the chain/sprocket will rub the swingarm, if it will even move at all. Is this simply because there is no weight on the shock and once the tire is mounted, and the rear end is on the ground and loaded all will be well? (see last pic)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150317_163032_zpstvxtedol.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150317_163032_zpstvxtedol.jpg.html)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150317_181423_zpsyqnc24pc.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150317_181423_zpsyqnc24pc.jpg.html)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/sprock_zpsf2qvarxd.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/sprock_zpsf2qvarxd.jpg.html)
That shock looks to be too long.
What's the measurement eye-to-eye?
Quote from: Speeddog on March 17, 2015, 08:52:48 PM
That shock looks to be too long.
What's the measurement eye-to-eye?
That's what I was afraid of. I actually posted on this subject awhile back because of an anecdotal tale I'd read regarding a Bitubo shock.
I'll measure it tomorrow, but what's odd is it worked just fine with my steel swingarm. Was using a normal OE hoop but I had super long 25mm spacers/risers.
I have almost exactly 13.25" center to center.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150318_123946_zpsupphwfqo.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150318_123946_zpsupphwfqo.jpg.html)
Thoughts?
OEM is 305mm or 12"
2" is a lot.
The Ohlins DU-440 for that bike is listed at 330mm.
It works fine on mine with a stock hoop.
Maybe 375 is pushing it I guess.
So that makes Nate's Ohlins 3/4" taller than even mine...and although I don't have a stock hoop I did use this shock previously with an OE hoop and 25mm risers.
I don't guess I'll know until the bikes on the ground, unless someone else has an idea. As it is, with all the weight on the engine the swingarm does not clear the sprocket.
I'm not trying to worry too much about it, I'd just hate to lower the bike and be in for a "shock" when I'm ready for my inaugural ride.
Woops, my calculation was off. I'm 1/4" taller than his Ohlins is what I meant.
That's only 5mm ay, so you wouldn't reckon it would hurt.
Actually...330 mm is 12.9"
It's 1/4" or about 6.5 mm.
I really like this shock otherwise I'd love an excuse to buy more stuff. Anyone have an idea how I'd determine if it will work or not with the bike in the air as it is?
[laugh] make the beast with two backsing Imperial measurements!
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on March 18, 2015, 04:21:32 PM
It's 1/4" or about 6.5 mm.
I really like this shock otherwise I'd love an excuse to buy more stuff. Anyone have an idea how I'd determine if it will work or not with the bike in the air as it is?
You really can't tell without loading the suspension. It will all come down to how close the stock and billet hoops are in dimension. 1/4" isn't much. I have the stock Heim joints extended past recommended length as well and it's no issue as far as ride height.
Don't get paralyzed...keep moving forward. [thumbsup]
Quote from: ducpainter on March 18, 2015, 04:39:48 PM
Don't get paralyzed...keep moving forward. [thumbsup]
Very true. Shake it off and keep pushing.
From the pic, it looks closer to 15.25" center to center.
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on March 18, 2015, 09:42:28 AM
I have almost exactly 13.25" center to center.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150318_123946_zpsupphwfqo.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150318_123946_zpsupphwfqo.jpg.html)
Thoughts?
Quote from: Speeddog on March 18, 2015, 07:50:31 PM
From the pic, it looks closer to 15.25" center to center.
Yeah that's misleading. It's 13.25. I thought about that after I posted too.
The bike is looking great btw.
Quote from: koko64 on March 18, 2015, 08:16:38 PM
The bike is looking great btw.
Thanks...the camera pics with the backdrop of my messy garage aren't meant to be flattering tho. I'm looking forward to taking some proper photos of a real bike soon.
Waiting on various shims and doodads from Commoto...and a single flathead M6X16 cap screw. [roll]
Thanks very much for everyone's input so far, it's a great confidence builder to know I have this tech section to fall back on.
Next question: I'd like to hook up the electrical, carbs and fuel plumbing today and hear the motor. I need to block off the inlet line in my gas tank as it's for an injected bike, and I don't want to jerry rig/half ass it. Does anyone know of an actual blanking piece of hardware that's made for this? otherwise the only other options I can think of are to use a vacuum cap which may not resist the fuel, or clamp a length of fuel hose to it, fold over and clamp again...which seems like a sturdy solution...but very much a "jerry rig"..
Viton is recommended for gasoline. Nitrile is a close second.
Keep in mind theinlet is at the top of the tank. You can put a small amount of fuel in to satisfy the urge to hear it and give you time to locate some caps. Use one at each end. I think you'll have better luck.
I am also one of the many following and admiring your build. [clap]
Sounds like another use for the ClampTite. :)
Ok I couldn't wait to get it on the ground....is it me or hoooboy is this close?
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150319_182422_zpsdxheiowt.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150319_182422_zpsdxheiowt.jpg.html)
How many teeth on the sprocket?
Quote from: koko64 on March 19, 2015, 03:51:45 PM
How many teeth on the sprocket?
15/41....would a 14 give me more clearance? [evil]
I'm at the limit of my 102 link chain with this setup.
I'll add that the rear doesn't *look* absurdly high by any means, for what that's worth.
I'll comment in auto body tech lingo when talking about doors hitting fenders while opening.
...a miss is as good as a mile. [thumbsup]
;)
With raised rear ride height, the 14 is more likely to impact the chain slider and swingarm iirc.
Quote from: ducpainter on March 19, 2015, 04:51:08 PM
I'll comment in auto body tech lingo when talking about doors hitting fenders while opening.
...a miss is as good as a mile. [thumbsup]
Quote from: koko64 on March 19, 2015, 04:52:59 PM
;)
With raised rear ride height, the 14 is more likely to impact the chain slider and swingarm iirc.
So I should take these comments to mean; "it's all good" then, I take it..
Looks good to me.
lookin good! [popcorn]
Forgot the swingarm pinch bolts... [roll]
In consideration of my rear end height and 30mm steering offset, I've placed the rear wheel at the rearmost position. As in, until it couldn't go any further back. Beyond making sure the axle won't rub the back of the swingarm cut outs, should I give it some extra room for any reason?
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on March 20, 2015, 12:06:31 PM
In consideration of my rear end height and 30mm steering offset, I've placed the rear wheel at the rearmost position. As in, until it couldn't go any further back. Beyond making sure the axle won't rub the back of the swingarm cut outs, should I give it some extra room for any reason?
If you do that, how are you going to adjust the chain?
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on March 20, 2015, 12:06:31 PM
In consideration of my rear end height and 30mm steering offset, I've placed the rear wheel at the rearmost position. As in, until it couldn't go any further back. Beyond making sure the axle won't rub the back of the swingarm cut outs, should I give it some extra room for any reason?
What NAKID said...
Also, if the swing arm is angled down at the wheel end, which it undoubtedly will be, it will make the back of the bike higher
Sup guys! (and anonymous gals?? :o :-*)
Sorry for the lack of pics, will post some when I get to my garage, but let's see if someone can help in the meantime.
I "roughed in" the wiring, meaning I just wanted to hear the engine crank and see everything light up. I'm somewhat stuck in 2 places. Harness is from a 2000 carby M600 but does not jive with the parts diagram. This is a weird year for the Monster harnesses, they are almost a hybrid of 01 carby models and 99< models.
- I'm not really sure how to ground everything properly, and I can't find a detailed diagram anywhere. I currently have a 4ga wire running from my negative terminal directly to the post/mounting point on my engine. (the hollow screw), and the negative lead from the solenoid goes to the neg battery terminal as well, with both "sandwiched" together and bolted down. From what I understand there is a frame mounting point involved. Can someone please describe the grounding process completely or better yet link me a photo?
- Everything lights up when I turn the key. Tail light, headlight, and turn signals all function properly. Starter has a nice new beefy cable to the solenoid and the afore mentioned beefy cable to the neg battery terminal. Tapping the starter button however, gives me nothing. I can hear the relay click/engage when I raise the side stand. Starter will engage when I "jump" the solenoid with a screwdriver. I believe I have either an issue with things not being grounded properly, the right switchgear not being connected properly, or the sidestand switch not functioning correctly. There is a "mystery wire" exiting the loom where the female connection for the sidestand is that doesn't jive with my '98 parts/dummy bike. So this may also be the culprit. Are there models that require the neutral light switch to be connected in order for the sidestand safety switch to function properly?
- Somewhat unrelated; the rectifier is a MOSFET Ricks model designed for the newer charging systems (my motor is a 96) the rectifier has 2 leads, but I can only find one vacant plug on my loom that fits.
I can take nice photos of anything that can help you help me. I'm at a point with this bike where my limited skills are no longer cutting it...the ability to follow instructions and turn wrenches. I don't understand vehicle electrical/charging/fueling systems. But if I know what goes where I'm good. I'd like to get everything wired and tidied up properly today so I can proceed with taking on the carbs and fuel lines...which at that point will give me a running, riding motorcycle. [Dolph] [drink] :)
Thanks...
Older Monsters had a ground cable from battery to frame to engine. Later models, battery directly to engine. One less connection, one less place for voltage drop problems. Check the connectors at the solenoid. The red/blue wire is from the starter button and should have power key on, sidestand up (not sure on a 2000), in neutral (yes switch needs to be hooked up) when you push the starter button. The other wire is ground. Power at the red/blue wire and good ground? Check solenoid. Easy way? supply 12V to one small terminal on the solenoid, ground the other small terminal, bike should crank. Make sure the bike is in neutral. No power at the red/blue? Trace back.
Photo or sketch of the leads in question on the regulator?
Quote from: howie on April 25, 2015, 11:14:04 AM
Older Monsters had a ground cable from battery to frame to engine. Later models, battery directly to engine. One less connection, one less place for voltage drop problems. Check the connectors at the solenoid. The red/blue wire is from the starter button and should have power key on, sidestand up (not sure on a 2000), in neutral (yes switch needs to be hooked up) when you push the starter button. The other wire is ground. Power at the red/blue wire and good ground? Check solenoid. Easy way? supply 12V to one small terminal on the solenoid, ground the other small terminal, bike should crank. Make sure the bike is in neutral. No power at the red/blue? Trace back.
Photo or sketch of the leads in question on the regulator?
Here's the wire in question:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/tempFileForShare_2015-04-25-14-30-21_zps6f9brk7a.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/tempFileForShare_2015-04-25-14-30-21_zps6f9brk7a.jpg.html)
I don't believe my 01 had that wire. There are 3 relays under the seat, as on 01 carbed bikes. The rest of the loom is similar to 99< Carbed Monsters. Bike is in neutral. Kill switch is connected to a plug on the loom labeled with the letter "C";
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150425_143516_zpscokb8ptn.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150425_143516_zpscokb8ptn.jpg.html)
Here are the male outputs on my Ricks rectifier:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150425_143710_zps730ahge6.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150425_143710_zps730ahge6.jpg.html)
Thanks Howie.
Kickstand switch isn't working properly. Jumped the wires for now and moved on to something else. I have a TPO kit I'll be installing later.
I know it can be a pain to stop, take pics, and then post them, so hats off to you for sharing the details of your build. [beer]
How's it going?
I figured out my own question about the generator and rectifier conundrum. There are 2 wires with female ends exiting the generator cover. As I understand it, I can connect 2/3 to the rectifier without regard to which and where, and all will be peachy.
Koko: if you get a moment, could you snap a photo of the fuel line plumbing from your FCR's? I think I got it right...but not sure.
I got this gorgeous and super nice Made In Italy fuel hose by Arietta. Translucent green and the proper metric sizes for the inlet line and output from the petcock. I'm using a clamptite tool and stainless wire to clamp everything. Trying to be super meticulous about every last detail of this bike. Any suggestions on a clean and secure way to blank off the extra fuel return on my injected tank? Piece of hose plus a screw is a bit janky...
Once I get this kickstand switch sorted I just need to:
- clean up and tie up the wiring
- install and bleed the rear brake
- clamp all the fuel and vaccum hoses
- wire up the charging system
- quadruple check torque and loctite all critical nuts (axles especially)
- wire up the Ignitech and tidy up the plug wires
I will have questions regarding my swingarm pivot shim job, alignment, and wheel spacers. I used ones supplied my Carrozzeria and they "seem" right...but would prefer to post high res photos and get several pairs of talented eyes on them before I go flying down the highway. I'm quite a bit paranoid about this for obvious reasons.
Are you running the double outlet Pentagon vacuum pump or going with the electric in tank pump?
Quote from: koko64 on April 25, 2015, 07:42:42 PM
Are you running the double outlet Pentagon vacuum pump or going with the electric in tank pump?
Pentagon. But I have the aftermarket Mikuni non OE with 3 outlets (still high output) looks identical only black. I'll be running a 2-1 Y fitting (wish I had split singles - would be perfect for that!)
I've not run one of them (dual outlet). It should be ok with the high flow float needles in the FCRs. Wonder what the flow rate is for each one? Half the OEM (which someone here found flowed heaps)? If its not and they flood a lot, then run a relief return line to the tank return inlet. So another Y fitting near the carb. Can the return inlet be tapped and fitted with the correct hardware? I'm not averse to a short hose and alloy fitting that looks the part , or a boot sturdy and fuel proof enough to clamp.
Quote from: koko64 on April 25, 2015, 08:02:55 PM
I've not run one of them (dual outlet). It should be ok with the high flow float needles in the FCRs. Wonder what the flow rate is for each one? Half the OEM (which someone here found flowed heaps)? If its not and they flood a lot, then run a relief return line to the tank return inlet. So another Y fitting near the carb. Can the return inlet be tapped and fitted with the correct hardware? I'm not averse to a short hose and alloy fitting that looks the part , or a boot sturdy and fuel proof enough to clamp.
Can you draw me a diagram to give me a better idea of what you're describing?
The fuel pump I have flows 65 lph. That's heaps. Gotta be at least the same as the OE pump?
That's a damn good idea...tap that return inlet and plug with a stainless cap screw and crush washer. Thanks.
The carbed SS has a Y fitting at the carb hose feeding it with a line back to the tank. One in, and one out for the excess. The two parts of the Y point back, one in, one out, the pointy end to the carb. Wasn't 100% successful, still had some carb flooding, but it's gotta help, and that was with the electric oem pump on my Superlight. If the vacuum pump flows that amount between the two outlets combined, then you should be ok. You still have the option to run a return line should flooding be an issue in case the pump is 65 Lph each outlet (I doubt it). I'd say it's combined at a guess as that's what the OEM pump flows. Being a pulse pump you should be ok without the return line rather than a constant flow type.
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on April 25, 2015, 11:45:05 AM
Here's the wire in question:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/tempFileForShare_2015-04-25-14-30-21_zps6f9brk7a.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/tempFileForShare_2015-04-25-14-30-21_zps6f9brk7a.jpg.html)
I don't believe my 01 had that wire. There are 3 relays under the seat, as on 01 carbed bikes. The rest of the loom is similar to 99< Carbed Monsters. Bike is in neutral. Kill switch is connected to a plug on the loom labeled with the letter "C";
I have not a clue what that wire is or where it goes. Maybe someone with an older bike could look at theirs? The '99 had the suicide kickstand (retracted when you lifted the bike to ride off), the switch just operating the light on the dash. Neutral switch just operated the light. The three relays on the '01 were main, safety (kickstand) and flasher. The small one would be the safety relay. The '99 should just have the main and flasher.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150425_143516_zpscokb8ptn.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150425_143516_zpscokb8ptn.jpg.html)
Here are the male outputs on my Ricks rectifier:
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150425_143710_zps730ahge6.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150425_143710_zps730ahge6.jpg.html)
See you got that one sorted out. Got a '99 wiring diagram?
Thanks Howie.
Howie
Re: relays- that's what I mentioned is odd about this harness as its like a hybrid of 99< and 01 carby harnesses. It has the 3 relays of my old 01 M750 but most of the other features (ground strap arrangements and sidestand safety switch) of the 99<. The sidestand switch is most certainly the same with the exception of that additional wire. The relay (again, I have 3) makes an audible click when I raise the stand and jumping the wires together allows the bike to start. Unfortunately the parts diagram isn't any help as it shows the setup of the 99< bikes. This harness came straight off a low mileage 2000 M600. Its truly a black sheep. I think I have it licked but that extra wire is bugging me.
Not sure if the 2000 had has the safety side stand set up, but I think so. Anyway, if the bike now starts and you are happy with the function or lack of the safety system I would document your set up for the future and call it a day on that one.
The extra wire? Everything work? I would neatly tape it out of the way in case I found a need for it in the future. A Haynes manual might help you since it has all the Monster wiring diagrams, in an easy to read format too.
Following the instructions found on this forum for connecting the older 2 wire generator to newer 3 wire rectifiers, I've arbitrarily picked 2 to use and blanked off the third. Ignore how ugly my soldering and heatshrink job looks; the connections are solid. But I'm concerned I used wire that is too thin for the job...the wires exiting the gen cover aren't exactly robust so I figured I could use what I had laying around that had the right bullet connectors. Do you guys think this 16 ga wire will be a problem and I should re-do with beefier wire, or am I ok?
Once again the patience with my fumbling and bumbling is highly appreciated. Particularly you, Howie.
Assuming your connections are good all should be good unless you are adding notable length to the wires. Are you eliminating a connector? Why are you adding wire? I personally like having a connector for diagnosis. On the flip, it is a problem spot. Less so if you use a weatherpack connector like these http://www.whiteproducts.com/connectors.shtml (http://www.whiteproducts.com/connectors.shtml)
Fumbling and bumbling? Nah, you are doing great! I admire you for your courage and ambition. Bike is looking great.
Ah, thanks for the link. I need to assemble a nice collection of weatherpack/superseal connectors.
Just noticed I forgot the photo in my above post;
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150426_122028_zps7lyvh1xk.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150426_122028_zps7lyvh1xk.jpg.html)
I pillaged the wiring from my parts bike, didn't want to hardwire it. I also didn't want to clip the female bullet connectors from my generator.
It stumped Howie and Koko which isn't easy;
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/tempFileForShare_2015-04-26-12-59-38_zpsnssg2rhp.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/tempFileForShare_2015-04-26-12-59-38_zpsnssg2rhp.jpg.html)
Runs off the same subharness as the coil and ignitor wiring. 2 small lugs with smallish wire, maybe 14-16ga. Doesn't appear in any parts manual I've scoured.
thx
Those wires go between the coils and the coil mounts or the coil mount screws. The coils mount on either ends with screws, and that wire goes between the screw head and the coil mount. If that doesn't make sense I can try to dig up a picture.
Edit: here's a picture. The wires are kind of hard to see because I put green masking tape labels on all the ignition wiring, but the end of it is circled.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0By5dKyi_dJR2YldjeUc2bFkwRTA)
Shweet, thanks dude. What kind of bike/year and model Monster do you have?
How about that eh. Never seen them before on any other carbed 900s.
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on April 27, 2015, 11:59:00 AM
Shweet, thanks dude. What kind of bike/year and model Monster do you have?
I've got a 2000 M750.
Quote from: koko64 on April 27, 2015, 02:19:52 PM
How about that eh. Never seen them before on any other carbed 900s.
The seemingly random differences between some of these early(ish) Monsters always amazes me. It's also possible that these were in a different orientation or position with the stock airbox, where you wouldn't see it so clearly. They could have been between the coil and the bracket on the bottom, for instance, and the black wire would have blended in pretty well with the airbox.
Never seen the wires and Ive removed airboxes on at least 7 900 belt drive models. I dont work on many Ducatis.
I wonder how many times Brad has seen those extra wires? He would have worked on hundreds of those models over the years.
Quote from: bond0087 on April 27, 2015, 05:46:34 PM
I've got a 2000 M750.
The seemingly random differences between some of these early(ish) Monsters always amazes me. It's also possible that these were in a different orientation or position with the stock airbox, where you wouldn't see it so clearly. They could have been between the coil and the bracket on the bottom, for instance, and the black wire would have blended in pretty well with the airbox.
That's the model year wiring harness I'm using for my build. I've found that, out of all the usual Ducati irregularities, this loom is the strangest of all. It's literally half 2001, half 99<. And the parts diagram is completely incorrect for it. The relays and fusebox are the same as 01, grounding and hot pigtails are like that of the 90's Monsters, and we've just figured out the engine wiring is unique to that year only as well. Interesting.
So, here's another riddle...
Parts diagram shows 1 locknut on the front motor mount bolt (2000 M600 frame) and one lock washer on the other motor mount just...floating there, no nut. Parts breakdown only calls for this one nut which requires a 17mm socket, and it must be a damn thin wall because I can't even fit a 12mm socket in that frame boss. The frame is threaded for both motor mount bolts, but I can't properly torque either one as they just continue to spin. What gives? Dafuq kind of socket do I need to fit in there? And is loctite recommended for these bolts?
This may help you.
http://nicholssportbikes.com/products/N10MMBOLTKIT_WOS.html (http://nicholssportbikes.com/products/N10MMBOLTKIT_WOS.html)
Also, does your engine have through holes for the mounting bolts?
Quote from: howie on April 29, 2015, 05:13:16 AM
This may help you.
http://nicholssportbikes.com/products/N10MMBOLTKIT_WOS.html (http://nicholssportbikes.com/products/N10MMBOLTKIT_WOS.html)
I've looked at the Nichols bolts...not keen on drilling my frame.
Quote from: howie on April 29, 2015, 05:13:16 AM
Also, does your engine have through holes for the mounting bolts?
...come again?
Some of the older engines used a bolt on either side for the front mount instead of a through bolt. My link to the Nichols bolt link was to help you understand the different designs. People do say you will feel the difference with the Nichols bolts though. My memory says this only applies to Pantah 600s and 750s, but I don't remember for sure. I can see what size the hex is on my old bolts, but mine are 12mm.
Quote from: howie on April 29, 2015, 05:42:53 AM
Some of the older engines used a bolt on either side for the front mount instead of a through bolt. My link to the Nichols bolt link was to help you understand the different designs. People do say you will feel the difference with the Nichols bolts though. My memory says this only applies to Pantah 600s and 750s, but I don't remember for sure. I can see what size the hex is on my old bolts, but mine are 12mm.
Ah, gotcha. Yes, my motor has through bolts. And the ever unreliable parts pdf for my frame also shows 2 long through bolts.
Taking a second look I can see you're correct...the OE nut is a flange style with the locking inner ring, and I was trying to fit a fat nylock in there. I do have 10mm flange nuts tho, I'll give one a shot today. I don't think there's room for a washer to help compensate for the lack of a locking feature, but my flange nuts are serrated to improve the grip, and I imagine a dab of loctite should keep it copacetic.
The floating spring washer in the diagram is just silly. I guess I'm supposed to drape it on the end of the MM bolt that threads into the frame and it'll magically do something other than rattle around behind my frame plug. [roll]
My bolt is 14 mm and nut 15mm. Shop manual says use grease, though I think loctite (blue) might not be a bad idea. Do re torque those bolts after a few hundred miles and again later. Thev spring washer goes under the hex on the rear bolt.
Just realized, when it comes to sticking different frames chances are Duck-Stew has already been there.
Hows it going?
Quote from: bond0087 on April 27, 2015, 09:41:22 AM
Those wires go between the coils and the coil mounts or the coil mount screws. The coils mount on either ends with screws, and that wire goes between the screw head and the coil mount. If that doesn't make sense I can try to dig up a picture.
Edit: here's a picture. The wires are kind of hard to see because I put green masking tape labels on all the ignition wiring, but the end of it is circled.
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0By5dKyi_dJR2YldjeUc2bFkwRTA)
Looks like your filters could use a good cleaning/re-oiling. Sorry, my OCD... :)
Quote from: koko64 on April 30, 2015, 05:23:38 AM
Hows it going?
I had to get out of the garage yesterday. Everything was pissing me off, most especially my Motowheels battery box. Even tho I got the whole thing installed after much work with a file, drill, and dremel, couldn't get the damn thing back together again after taking it apart to re-do the solenoid wiring. The box grinds and rubs my upper valve cover and interferes with my throttle cable. And for the life of me I can't figure out how the little solenoid bracket fits back under there. Might just relocate it before I lose my mind.
I'm picking up my speedometer bracket and exhaust today, so that's good news.
Looking forward to your ride impressions.
I really like the look of those battery boxes. On the oem airbox/battery box, you have to dremel a bit of a gap where the FCR cables run.
Did something dumb.
Poured like a shot glass sized amount of gas in the carbs bc I was eager to her her run. And she fired up alright...and sounded glorious for about 2 seconds. Noticed I was leaking oil at all 4 oil cooler connection points so I tightened everything up, topped off the oil, tried again (bc I'm stupid and impatient like that) and nothing. Thought maybe I flooded it so I took the plugs out to check, thought I might have smelled gas on em, swapped em out...tried again with starter fluid still no go. Now I have no spark on either cylinder. What the heck did I do?
Are you running stock ignitors or an Ignitek?
Quote from: ducpainter on April 30, 2015, 05:56:58 PM
Are you running stock ignitors or an Ignitek?
Ignitek...
Also...why can't I find step by step instructions for wiring up the coils and ignitors anywhere in my manuals? I have both a Haynes and LT Synders manual. Can't seem to find what I'm looking for in either.
One of my problems is I'm just so damn burned out...I wanna ride already. My mind is fried to the point I'm having difficulty with the simplest of tasks.
What plugs you using RM?
Have you mapped it? Better check the connectors. Did it sound like it was running correctly timing wise (not cross wired)?
Quote from: koko64 on April 30, 2015, 06:09:23 PM
What plugs you using RM?
Have you mapped it? Better check the connectors. Did it sound like it was running correctly timing wise (not cross wired)?
Yes...but it really didn't run long enough to be sure. I remember the last time I crossed the wires on the Ignitech and it wasn't immediately obvious. I only had the bike "running" for a second maybe less...my "2 seconds" was def generous.
I have 0 experience with the Ignitek...
talk to 'Tiz.
Could be. Not hard to cross them. Have the paint pen ready to match the connectors if you try the other way and it runs correctly. You got a remote tank like a Motion Pro "drip bottle"? Worth having.
Remember, Ignitechs don't like non R plugs.
Tiz is the local Ignitech guy ay?
For practical purposes the Ignitech is no different than the stock ignitors. I'm using R plugs for sure. Lets pretend I'm running stock ignitors for now?
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on April 30, 2015, 06:27:52 PM
For practical purposes the Ignitech is no different than the stock ignitors. I'm using R plugs for sure. Lets pretend I'm running stock ignitors for now?
Stock ignitors are very sensitive to grounding.
If they work...and then stop...it's never good.
I think the Ignitech are more robust.
Cross wired? Need more fuel? Nothing at the plugs when out and grounded?
I'll be back in a couple of hours and will check in.
Quote from: ducpainter on April 30, 2015, 06:29:47 PM
Stock ignitors are very sensitive to grounding.
If they work...and then stop...it's never good.
So...if I cranked the bike without the system properly grounded...I could kill the ignitors? :o
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on April 30, 2015, 06:35:35 PM
So...if I cranked the bike without the system properly grounded...I could kill the ignitors? :o
Maybe...
I have a story.
Many ignitors were harmed.
This is what I've done as far as grounding the system...
Fat 4ga wire from negative battery post to the hollow bolt into the engine. I even went so far as to scrape away the powder coat on top even tho the bolt sinks deep into the case. The ground strap off the loom is hooked to the negative post. Sufficient?
I guess I'd ask how the Ignitek is grounded.
On the older carby bikes there was a ground strap between the frame and the cases, plus the battery grounds and any other grounds that Ducati thought were necessary.
Keep in mind I've already disavowed any specific Ignitek knowledge.
Quote from: ducpainter on April 30, 2015, 07:31:57 PM
I guess I'd ask how the Ignitek is grounded.
On the older carby bikes there was a ground strap between the frame and the cases, plus the battery grounds and any other grounds that Ducati thought were necessary.
Keep in mind I've already disavowed any specific Ignitek knowledge.
I'd guess through the two mystery lugs and the loom ground, but that's a guess.
You tried the switching the wires? Only a really a couple of ways they can go with the different sized connectors. It only swaps cylinders/coils not ground or anything. The different sized connectors give some measure of protection. I did the same with no blow ups, just bad running, as long as your grounds are good.
Thanks to Speeddog for this info that he provided me in an older thread, it was confirmed to be accurate at the time.
"Left side"
Ignitech 2-wire white plug (blue and brown wires) connects to red/white trigger wire.
White plug with white wire to black/brown/red on bike harness.
"Right side"
2-wire black plug (blue and yellow wires) goes to black/yellow trigger wires.
3-wire black plug to red/gray/black on bike harness.
That was a good thread.
Want see how it goes. [popcorn]
Dont forget paint dots on the connectors.
still no spark. :( I'm going to proceed as if I either completely imagined hearing the bike briefly run or that I may have disconnected to ignition harness and reconnected it improperly.
Here's a photo of my hookup;
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/tempFileForShare_2015-05-01-10-25-10_zpsl5dxgvl3.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/tempFileForShare_2015-05-01-10-25-10_zpsl5dxgvl3.jpg.html)
Brown/white&blue/black are the wire colors of where I'm connecting the ignition harness to the main loom. The 2 mystery lugs are now secured to the respective coil brackets. Main ground strap is secured to the neg battery post. All fuses double checked. All wiring to the Ignitech triple checked.
Tested with known good units (Kokusan boxes). Still nothing. :(
Any luck?
I still think it's a ground issue...
If you use an ohm meter between any ground lug on the harness and the engine do you get 0 resistance?
Quote from: ducpainter on May 01, 2015, 10:15:06 AM
I still think it's a ground issue...
If you use an ohm meter between any ground lug on the harness and the engine do you get 0 resistance?
Can you explain...? I have a reaaaally crappy multimeter...what should I touch the 2 test leads to exactly?
Could the rectifier be the culprit?
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on May 01, 2015, 11:43:52 AM
Can you explain...? I have a reaaaally crappy multimeter...what should I touch the 2 test leads to exactly?
It has an ohms scale...correct?
Touch one to one of those ground lugs for the ignition coils, and the other to one of the head nuts/studs.
If the reading isn't very close to zero I believe you've found the issue.
Quote from: ducpainter on May 01, 2015, 12:56:32 PM
It has an ohms scale...correct?
Touch one to one of those ground lugs for the ignition coils, and the other to one of the head nuts/studs.
If the reading isn't very close to zero I believe you've found the issue.
OK I see what you mean now...
...just had a thought...and I'm not at the garage...but my coils are very loosely screwed to their bracket...via stainless or aluminum (can't remember which ones I ordered from McMaster ) coupling nuts, which are attached to a heavily powder coated bracket. Now those wires with the small lugs that we were wondering about, I now assume those are ground straps (although they're awfully thin for that)
I guess I'm now wondering if this is where my problem lies. What's the protocol for securing the coils "properly"?
Here's the deal...
You have a freshly powdercoated frame, and a freshly painted engine...
and I'll bet money, I'll send you the address to send it :-*, you didn't clean mounting surfaces for the engine, or use toothed washers for any of the wiring that is establishing ground.
Quote from: ducpainter on May 01, 2015, 04:31:52 PM
Here's the deal...
You have a freshly powdercoated frame, and a freshly painted engine...
and I'll bet money, I'll send you the address to send it :-*, you didn't clean mounting surfaces for the engine, or use toothed washers for any of the wiring that is establishing ground.
You'd be wrong about cleaning the engine mounting point under the lug. :P did that.
The frame is painted from the factory...it's a NOS frame. And...I don't have an earth cable to it at all...I felt that the strap from the neg battery post to engine would suffice...and obviously the engine is mounted to the frame via 2 big fat 10mm bolts...
So...tomorrow I will;
- replace the OE neg battery cable which looks to be a 6ga and rather old with a fresh fat 4ga, this will run directly from my neg battery post to the motor.
- add an additional strap from motor to frame (is that really necessary? )
- route the grounding lug from the loom...where? It currently is screwed to the neg battery post along with my main ground wire to engine. Is there a better idea? Is it supposed to attach to the frame?
- what's the correct way to mount my coils?
The whole deal with having the motor briefly crank really bugs me...wish I had a spare set of coils...
Thanks again...
I've been wrong before, ask my wife, but without an ohms reading between the wiring harness and the engine you can't be sure the engine in grounded.
A factory painted frame...did you clean the paint off the mount points? The painters typically don't care.
Is your motor not painted from your engine guy?
You left off the ground strap that Ducati used.
If you ground the motor to the battery you neglect the harness. There isn't necessarily a good connection between all the components.
Use your meter and find out, and then go forward.
Ok then, last questions for the night...
As I understand it, Ducati did away with the engine to frame - frame to battery ground loop in 01 in favor of one strap from the motor the battery. This is effectively what I have done, so *should* suffice, provided the engine mounting point is free of any paint or powder?
Where should I bolt the ground strap that exits the loom?
Could incorrect hookup of the rectifier or a bad rectifier be causing this issue?
I would like the definitive, slam dunk grounding method that I can do properly and will perform correctly for the life of the motorcycle.
Tell me what the ohm meter says. ;D
I have it on good authority that DP was once a sparky. Who knew? ;)
You do need bare metal. Take a sharp drill bit and twisting it by hand remove paint and powder coat from each grounding point. Bolt in the connections and then cover them with dielectric grease for protection. I do this everywhere there is a ground. I like the grounds from motor to frame, battery to frame and loom to frame at the same point where the battery grounds to frame, under the battery support bracket. Run a longer bolt there and secure both cables with a nut underneath. You can run another from that spot to the motor too if you like. My bike was a Japanese import, so it had extra grounds everywhere! [laugh]
DP wants you to eliminate that factor.
Testing with fuel in the carb throats is another factor, and I would run a drip feed tank to ensure you can crank the motor with consistent fuel. FCRs need a lot of juice to get going with no choke, and they gulp air, so you need quite a bit to make them run long enough to catch it with the throttle.
I know the bike ran for a second, and that would have me wondering too, but weird shit happens. I feel you should remove a plug and earth it to the motor to check for spark the old fashioned way. At least that's a concrete test you can see. I actually have a spark tester I use that does the same thing.
I am also suspicious of your side stand switch, because you had to remove the stand because of the exhaust, and I'm a suspicious person ;D.
That's the deal Tony...no spark in the cylinder will definitely equal no spark 'not grounded' to the head. There's enough powder and paint on his stuff to ensure there's no bare metal...anywhere. The best chance is the plug threads. I'm not picking on you Eli...really.
Think about it.
The fact it ran for a second and a half is explainable. I honestly believe he has no electrical ground to the engine so the plugs can't fire.
Call me crazy.
Your suspicion regarding the side stand switch is also valid.
Just to be clear, how do you know that there is no spark? Are you saying that because it won't start, or because you know for a fact that there is no spark? If you aren't testing the spark with a spark tester or with the plug out of the engine, etc., don't jump to conclusions. Autozone has a nice tester for $9: http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/ignition-tester/great-neck-adjustable-ignition-spark-tester/10257_0_0/ (http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/ignition-tester/great-neck-adjustable-ignition-spark-tester/10257_0_0/) if you don't already have one.
After you've verified for sure that you have no spark (which you might have already done), I would start troubleshooting the ground by checking resistances like DP mentioned, and also checking the voltage to the ignition modules and to the coils with respect to battery ground. With the negative probe of your multimeter connected to the negative battery terminal, measure the voltage at the red wires going to the ignition modules and coils. With the kill switch on, you should see 12v. If it passes that test, check the voltage of the red wires with respect to the black wires going to the ignition coil. That voltage difference should also be 12v. If either isn't, that would suggest a problem related to the safety circuits like the sidestand switch, kill switch, ignition switch, etc., or a bad ground (although you should be able to determine the bad ground using the resistance check).
PS: I don't know which wiring diagrams you have, but I color coded the wiring diagram for a 2000 Monster, which might be helpful for you (it's a bit easier to follow than the black/white versions): http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=52064.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=52064.0)
Lotsa good info in these last few posts Eli! As bond0087 said, test for spark. It might be a fuel problem, plus dry carbs can take a lot of cranking without a prime, particularly FCRs Any time a frame is painted or powder coated any threaded area between an electrical component or metal bracket holding it and the frame need to be taken down to bare metal to insure a good ground. This includes the engine and NOS frames. Follow Tony's recommendations, on the carbs too!! Tony knows FCRs. Coils or coil brackets loose? Tighten them. Too lazy to look, but that lug grounds a bunch of stuff
Rectifier might be a problem, but unlikely your present problem. Bike should run without a charging system until it runs out of battery.
A lot to work on tomorrow starting with the ohm meter. There is no spark and I confirmed this long ago with both plugs out of the motor and grounded to the motor, the engine studs, the plug threads...there is no spark. On either cylinder. No spark. Sidestand switch has nothing to do with it, the bike either cranks or it doesn't crank. And it's properly jumped directly at the relay at the moment and completely out of the way.
I do agree with the logic of what's been posted regarding my ground and don't feel picked on in the slightest. I don't know a damn thing about motors, electricity, or carburetion...I'm just fairly good at comprehending and following clear instructions.
Thanks for the replies, I'm pretty sure I'll have this solved this weekend [thumbsup]
I only have basic electrical understanding. I do basic test and swap parts to trouble shoot. In light of that I have a question for Howie.
Howie, since there's no spark, what is your routine for testing the ignition coils with a multimeter? What kind of readings would you look for? To what extent would an inconsistent ground for those components put them at risk?
Secondary circuit High tension lead to ground (coil body) 13.5 K ohms ±20%.
Primary circuit small terminal to small terminal 4.5 ohms ±15%.
Spark plug terminal cap 5K ohms ±10%.
My thought is the possibility of both coil dying at the same time is between slim and none. I'm with Nate about this likely being a ground issue. I looked back in the thread remembering Eli saying something about the coil bracket not being tight. That would be a bad ground.
Doh [bang] For stock coils.
Any luck getting it running?
Don't leave me hangin' mate, I gotta know. [popcorn]
I ignored the bike today. I'm drinking tequila and playing Pac Man at a new "Barcade" that opened in town recently. I needed a vacation from this thing lol. I bet I get her running by Monday thanks to y'all tho :)
Good to walk away for a break before having another go. :)
Pretty much at my wits end here. I'm not getting any reading on my multimeter at all when I check for resistance at the coil (one lead at the lug, another at a confirmed ground). Could someone explain to me, like I'm a bumbling fool, exactly how the coils are supposed to be grounded? Each lug is bolted tight to its respective coupling nut but it isn't as if the bracket is a ground so I don't really get it. On the original setup the coils bolt to a plastic box. I don't get how that grounds anything. I'll scrape paint and powder off of anything I need to but nothing is working. I currently have a 4ga wire to the engine and all the pc is scraped away at that point. Another redundant wire I just ran to the frame where I also scraped it clean. I believe that the coils aren't grounded but I apparently don't know how to ground them or even properly use a multimeter to check. It briefly ran...I don't know what happened since then or what else to do.
I understand what you're saying.
Unfortunately I'd have to be looking at the job up close to be able to help at this stage. Ill leave you in Howies hands.
If you can borrow some coils you at least can ease your mind there.
Do hook up a fuel supply if you want to run it sans tank.
That's what the wires are for...to provide a ground because the plastic can't. How did you confirm the ground?
On the Monsters of that era Ducati grounded the frame to the engine with a braided strap by the right rear set. All the chassis grounds then connected to the frame.
If you didn't scape all the paint off the engine mount points on both the frame and the engine your ground wire from the battery to the engine does nothing because the engine is electrically isolated from the frame..
Where does this redundant wire run from and to?
Did you take a resistance reading from a head stud to any wiring harness ground like we asked?
I just finished rewiring the entire bike with the old school 90's harness from my parts 750. I wanted to use the simpler coil wiring that didn't have those stupid lugs. Bike has spark now. I don't know what the deal was before and I don't care.
That was pretty annoying actually...getting bested like that despite all of your best efforts to help me out. I would have simply swapped the coil and ICU wiring but the connectors were different. That older harness is significantly simpler tho...much easier to route and quite a bit smaller so it turned out ok I guess. Thanks again, sorry the effort was wasted.
Glad things are sorted. Wish I could have posted back sooner. As far as coil testing goes, normally you would test the primary by going from small connector to small connector and secondary from tower to either small connector. I looked in the manual for coil specs since Ducati coils spec differently from most coils. Their directions say tower to ground. This seemed weird to me since that would indicate a winding that was shorted to ground. I think you may have proved they are wrong. An ignition coil is just automotive terminology for what the rest of the world calls a transformer. Sorry for the confusion.
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on May 03, 2015, 04:45:45 PM
That was pretty annoying actually...getting bested like that despite all of your best efforts to help me out. ..........
No, you weren't bested.
You won the last round.
And some of us lurked and learned a bit more. :)
I just looked at the Haynes manual. They got coil testing right.
All that's really standing between continued tomfoolery and riding is basically :
- Fuel hose plumbing
- Shoring up a few random things, cleaning up the wiring etcetera.
My next questions deal with critical safety issues...primarily the wheels/axles...my Carrozerria wheels didn't come with instructions...just a set of bearings and a pair of spacers. There was really one way to put them together and it went smoothly but I'm still a bit nervous so I'm going to post several pics later today and get feedback from the lot of you. And there's a concerning lack of thread on my rear axle after the billet chain plates and Ti nuts. Tony tells me this is normal...but I'd def prefer as many opinions as possible here, lol.
As long as the threads of the nut are fully engaged it's fine.
The TPO Ti axle nuts have a thicker flange and barely leave a thread showing or just about flush. You really have to have the axle centered evenly or one side misses out. You'll never round those nuts though and they stay clean.
Quote from: ducpainter on May 04, 2015, 03:54:24 AM
As long as the threads of the nut are fully engaged it's fine.
They aren't. I'll post up pics later but I'm pretty sure I already know the answer to my question. Love the chain plates and the Ti nuts bit not going to compromise the safety of myself and others for it.
Well, good news and bad news. Good news:
https://youtu.be/ZSkeAPZ_3bY
Bad news is I have a moderate leak at my center case gasket. I'm not panicking just yet, because I wanted to see if this is somewhat common on a fresh motor build until things "cure", and/or could be a simple issue of retorquing some bolts. Engine is hot as fuq so I have time to kill...
Once the axle nuts are torqued, the rear wheel ceases to spin freely. I've just finished taking it apart to check how I've installed the spacers and caliper bracket and everything seems to line up and fit perfect. Spacers were idiot proof, they only go in one way. The wheel, spacers, and caliper bracket felt like the perfect amount of friction...just a bit of nudging around with my knees and a few light mallet thuds. The wheel moves fine by hand it just won't spin freely. There is no sign or feel of any lumpiness or drag...just a consistent friction that prevents the wheel from spinning freely. This may be normal on a new set of wheels, spacers, and powder coated swingarm and may "break in" after the first ride but I wanted to get a second opinion from you lot.
Thanks
Possible brake drag? Can't tell much over the internet.
Quote from: howie on May 05, 2015, 11:26:40 AM
Possible brake drag? Can't tell much over the internet.
Oh I understand that. The rear brake isn't hooked up neither is the chain.
Figured it out, missing an inner spacer.. :-[ too bad I destroyed a wheel bearing already [roll]
Were the cases split anytime?
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on May 04, 2015, 02:24:44 PM
Well, good news and bad news. Good news:
https://youtu.be/ZSkeAPZ_3bY
Bad news is I have a moderate leak at my center case gasket. I'm not panicking just yet, because I wanted to see if this is somewhat common on a fresh motor build until things "cure", and/or could be a simple issue of retorquing some bolts. Engine is hot as fuq so I have time to kill...
Handy having talented friends;
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150506_084309_zpswyxmxl9i.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150506_084309_zpswyxmxl9i.jpg.html)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150506_084739_zpspuvmmzqf.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150506_084739_zpspuvmmzqf.jpg.html)
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/20150506_092053_zpsdhfqsjht.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/20150506_092053_zpsdhfqsjht.jpg.html)
Both wheels...finally done...and checked off the list.
Quote from: silas on May 06, 2015, 06:46:12 AM
Were the cases split anytime?
Umm...the motor was built from scratch...so imma say "yeah".
But I'm not sweating that right now. I retorqued the case bolts and have heat cycled the motor a few times since and it ain't been back.
Good news. Head work, porting, flywheel, bore, cylinders- none of that requires the bottom end to be split so I wasn't thinking yours was split on its rebuild. I could be wrong. Unless you had work on the crank done...or crank oil galley plug.
Quote from: silas on May 06, 2015, 12:50:06 PM
Good news. Head work, porting, flywheel, bore, cylinders- none of that requires the bottom end to be split so I wasn't thinking yours was split on its rebuild. I could be wrong. Unless you had work on the crank done...or crank oil galley plug.
Ah, gotcha. Yeah I'd actually brought him what was basically a basket case. It was a low mileage SS engine but the oil galley plug was backing out. So that's what started all the shenanigans...powder coated the cases and had the crank balanced for the new pistons "while we were in there", then of course all the other stuff. Sorry didn't mean to be a wiseass :P
[popcorn]
How's it goin'?
Getting there. Waiting on one stinkin' Y splitter for my fuel pump and a M10x1.5 flange nut for my MM bolt. Had a scary moment when I was hitting a brick wall trying to shift up from 2nd gear...started the motor fiddled around and there it was. I'm stoopid, the chain needs to be on lol. I need just one damn day to finish it without my phone ringing or evil witch women bothering me to do shit.
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on May 06, 2015, 07:00:56 PM
I need just one damn day to finish it without my {edit} evil witch women bothering me to do shit.
Let me know if you figure out how to make this happen. ;D
Mark