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Author Topic: DIY Painting Tips  (Read 398911 times)
scott_araujo
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« Reply #405 on: January 15, 2010, 01:56:42 PM »

But for the most part, black is black.

I would totally disagree.  The hue or underlying color of your black comes into sharp relief when it's next to another black it does not match.

Blue, you might want to see if ColorRite has a touch up pen.  A bit pricey but they match pretty well.  I think their main matches are for frame and body, not sure if they can match the wheels.  I think Ducati may sometimes use slight different colors on the wheels.

On an unrelated note DP, there are lots of rattle can engine paints to choose from.  These are mostly single stage, not 2 part curing.  Since these will probably get warm or hot being on the engine, do they 'cure' more completely than say body panels with rattle can?  Specifically, would they be less suseptible to peeling if you spilled gasoline on them?  Just wonderin'.

Scott
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« Reply #406 on: January 15, 2010, 02:02:50 PM »

AFAIK, things that cure on their own do not cure any better with heat.
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« Reply #407 on: January 15, 2010, 02:09:17 PM »

I have seen black that didn't match a couple of times  Huh?  On one car somebody painted a fender and it looked a little brown, and on another, the black had a blue hue to it.  But for the most part, black is black.
Nothing is that simple. There are in fact blacks that are yellower or browner. Pick what you have.

I would totally disagree.  The hue or underlying color of your black comes into sharp relief when it's next to another black it does not match.

Blue, you might want to see if ColorRite has a touch up pen.  A bit pricey but they match pretty well.  I think their main matches are for frame and body, not sure if they can match the wheels.  I think Ducati may sometimes use slight different colors on the wheels.

On an unrelated note DP, there are lots of rattle can engine paints to choose from.  These are mostly single stage, not 2 part curing.  Since these will probably get warm or hot being on the engine, do they 'cure' more completely than say body panels with rattle can?  Specifically, would they be less suseptible to peeling if you spilled gasoline on them?  Just wonderin'.

Scott
If there is no activator there is no 'cure'.

It's a simple evaporation reaction.

You get what you pay for. Wink
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djrashonal
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« Reply #408 on: February 13, 2010, 10:24:31 AM »

So I've got a question about paint......

I purchased a used tank in good condition and it was sprayed black but no clear coat was put on. I was going to apply my decals and put the tank on the bike. My question is: Is there a downside to not putting a clear coat on? I called a couple places around here and the lowest I was quoted just to spray 1 coat of clear was 150...and seeing as how no job=no money....it's a bit of a road block. so should i get it clear coated? is 150 a good price?  thanks!
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« Reply #409 on: February 13, 2010, 02:30:29 PM »

So I've got a question about paint......

I purchased a used tank in good condition and it was sprayed black but no clear coat was put on. I was going to apply my decals and put the tank on the bike. My question is: Is there a downside to not putting a clear coat on? I called a couple places around here and the lowest I was quoted just to spray 1 coat of clear was 150...and seeing as how no job=no money....it's a bit of a road block. so should i get it clear coated? is 150 a good price?  thanks!
That could be a loaded question.

What was it sprayed with?

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« Reply #410 on: February 13, 2010, 03:30:07 PM »

I'm not quite sure.... this is the tank I purchased:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380181017964&viewitem=
I was told it was paint, but I have no idea how many coats or even what kind of paint
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« Reply #411 on: February 13, 2010, 03:39:27 PM »

I'm not quite sure.... this is the tank I purchased:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380181017964&viewitem=
I was told it was paint, but I have no idea how many coats or even what kind of paint
I'd put the decals on it and pay the buck and a half to have it cleared professionally. It looks good.

Awesome price BTW
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djrashonal
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« Reply #412 on: February 13, 2010, 04:00:08 PM »

I'd put the decals on it and pay the buck and a half to have it cleared professionally. It looks good.

Awesome price BTW

Ok, will do! Thanks, I was happy i got it for that, but would have been happier if it was clear coated
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« Reply #413 on: February 14, 2010, 01:52:56 PM »

So i just talked to the guy who was gonna clear coat it and he said that he's pretty booked, but if i want him to squeeze it in it's gonna cost another 100, so all in all 250 just to get it clearcoated....that sounds pretty ridiculous to me. Is this something i can do my self? or should i shop around or bite the $250 bullet?


something like this:
http://www.colorrite.com/product/aerosol-kk8-eggshell-clearcoat-kit-1008.cfm

« Last Edit: February 14, 2010, 02:01:52 PM by djrashonal » Logged

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« Reply #414 on: February 15, 2010, 02:44:08 AM »

So i just talked to the guy who was gonna clear coat it and he said that he's pretty booked, but if i want him to squeeze it in it's gonna cost another 100, so all in all 250 just to get it clearcoated....that sounds pretty ridiculous to me. Is this something i can do my self? or should i shop around or bite the $250 bullet?


something like this:
http://www.colorrite.com/product/aerosol-kk8-eggshell-clearcoat-kit-1008.cfm


I think $250 is pretty steep.

I'd shop around.

If you have a place to spray it the colorrite kit would work.
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« Reply #415 on: February 15, 2010, 04:49:06 AM »

dp,

Quote
It's the painters fault. Grin

He should have final washed the parts when they were in the booth. Wink...says so in painting 101.

My buddy got so  #$#%@* off that, well, the guy still has a job, but, has to pay $45.00 for the SS Flat Black[yes, that's the price for a pint here]

This is how the front fender looks like,

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« Reply #416 on: February 15, 2010, 05:47:25 AM »

I have a 2000 M900ie Dark. 
The previous owner had some custom pin-striping done on the tank over the original dark matte finish.  Of course, I love the bike, but not the pin-striping.  I took some acetone and a soft cloth and the pin-striping wipes right off revealing the original dark matte paint.  The original paint is in great shape on the tank. 
The issue with removing the custom paint is that there is a faint outline of where the pin-striping was.  If the tank was gloss, I would end up buffing the paint with my orbital buffer or clay-bar the finish, but with the matte finish I don't know what my options are (if any). 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #417 on: February 15, 2010, 05:58:41 AM »

I have a 2000 M900ie Dark. 
The previous owner had some custom pin-striping done on the tank over the original dark matte finish.  Of course, I love the bike, but not the pin-striping.  I took some acetone and a soft cloth and the pin-striping wipes right off revealing the original dark matte paint.  The original paint is in great shape on the tank. 
The issue with removing the custom paint is that there is a faint outline of where the pin-striping was.  If the tank was gloss, I would end up buffing the paint with my orbital buffer or clay-bar the finish, but with the matte finish I don't know what my options are (if any). 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
You don't have options IMO.

If you buff the finish will get glossier, and I doubt it would fix anything. Add that there is very little paint the possibility of rub through is pretty good.

Refinish won't be an 'exact match' to the rest of the bike due to aging of the finish and the inherent color variance with the darks.

Give it time...it will even out with more 'aging'. Wink

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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


Blue
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« Reply #418 on: February 15, 2010, 06:18:24 AM »

You don't have options IMO.
If you buff the finish will get glossier, and I doubt it would fix anything. Add that there is very little paint the possibility of rub through is pretty good.
Refinish won't be an 'exact match' to the rest of the bike due to aging of the finish and the inherent color variance with the darks.
Give it time...it will even out with more 'aging'. Wink

Just to clarify...if I wipe off all of the pin-striping on the tank, I should leave the finish alone.  The color variation I am seeing is due to UV exposure fading the exposed "dark" matte finish?  Time in the sun will even the color out?
Thanks for the current and previous advice regarding touching up the wheel paint.
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lazylightnin717
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« Reply #419 on: February 15, 2010, 10:04:50 AM »

DP: I am getting a guy to mill my stock clutch cover and would like to paint it black. Where I work, we have endless amounts of lacquer based flat black. Assuming that the cover is aluminum, should I use vari-prime before painting? What about the lacquer based paint? Good idea or should I look into a different type of paint? Clear coat or no? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!
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