DIY Painting Tips

[ducpainter]

I'd assume I want a 2 part paint at a min on something like this.

Think a preval can will work to spray epoxy?

I wouldn't use epoxy for the masters, unless that was your primer and you used a 2 part urethane over it.

I don't use epoxy for parts exposed to the sun.

If you reduced sufficiently I believe you could use a Pre-Val and spray multiple thin coats.

[DarkMonster620]

dp,

I'm between purchasing a used, CF fairing for my Monster, it's missing the clips that hold the windscreen; can these be manufactured at home? How can I manufacture them? I'll paint the fairing in flat black as the rest of the bike, so...

[scott_araujo]

DP, many older British bikes have a tank that's part chrome and part painted.  How do they do this?  I would think the paint would flake off if there's chrome underneath.

Thanks,

Scott

[ducpainter]

DP, many older British bikes have a tank that's part chrome and part painted.  How do they do this?  I would think the paint would flake off if there's chrome underneath.

Thanks,

Scott

If the chrome is left smooth it does just that. I've seen lots that have lost their paint. I often wonder what was done to the Monster tanks that were chrome and paint combos

Sometimes the painted area will be lightly sandblasted to achieve enough roughness for paint adhesion. That's what I would do.

[ducrider45]

I plan on painting a alum. bicycle frame. Im looking for a "bassboat" type finish. I have been to the local auto paint store and have not found a paint that meets the "bassboat" spec. Im thinking that this will have to be custom. Im now thinking that it may be a multi stage job. Please tell me if I have got this correct.
1st: epoxy primer
2nd: Heavy metalic flake silver dust coat
3rd: Heavy metalic flake silver color coat
4th: candy orange (# of coats to get desired color/shade)
5th: color sand
6th: clear coat and Decals
7th: final clear coat

Will this work ? thanks.









;

[ducpainter]

I plan on painting a alum. bicycle frame. Im looking for a "bassboat" type finish. I have been to the local auto paint store and have not found a paint that meets the "bassboat" spec. Im thinking that this will have to be custom. Im now thinking that it may be a multi stage job. Please tell me if I have got this correct.
1st: epoxy primer
2nd: Heavy metalic flake silver dust coat
3rd: Heavy metalic flake silver color coat
4th: candy orange (# of coats to get desired color/shade)
5th: color sand
6th: clear coat and Decals
7th: final clear coat

Will this work ? thanks.









;

Look at House of Kolor for your system. It's available online.

It won't work exactly as you have it, but close.

After the primer you need to decide what color you want to lay your flake over. I've done silver flake over black and over silver. The flake will cover better over a lighter color.

The bassboat flake should be put on in full wet coats so it lays down as flat as possible. You'll need a fairly large fluid tip depending on flake size. You want to limit the number of coats to achieve that flatness. The flake will give you a very rough surface. It will need to be cleared and sanded before the candy orange is applied or you'll sand through the candy showing raw flake.

Depending on whose products you're using you may have to clear the candy before decals and then clear again.

When I do a flake job there is always a minimum of 9 coats of clear.

HTH

[Bones]

Hi DP,

so I tried to shoot hot rod black on some test pieces with a gun I got to play around with.  didn't work out so hot, so plan b is now to shoot my pieces with rattle can duplicolor paint and follow up with a special lacquer flat clearcoat that is supposedly gas-proof (It's made for model airplanes).

I'm shooting tank, cowl, and fender to emulate the dark color scheme (not color match, just the sheen).

so here are my 2 questions:

I know rattle cans spray much thinner coats than a gun, so I am expecting to end up with 5-6 coats of base and probably 3-4 coats of clear.
started shooting the tank, but so muggy this weekend, I got some light orange peel and some scratches from primer coat also showed up.

can I wet color-sand the base to smoothen it out and if so, 1000, 1600, 2000 grit? or will the clearcoat hide this?

Can a flat clear coat be wet-sanded?

TIA.

[ducpainter]

Hi DP,

so I tried to shoot hot rod black on some test pieces with a gun I got to play around with.  didn't work out so hot, so plan b is now to shoot my pieces with rattle can duplicolor paint and follow up with a special lacquer flat clearcoat that is supposedly gas-proof (It's made for model airplanes).

I'm shooting tank, cowl, and fender to emulate the dark color scheme (not color match, just the sheen).

so here are my 2 questions:

I know rattle cans spray much thinner coats than a gun, so I am expecting to end up with 5-6 coats of base and probably 3-4 coats of clear.
started shooting the tank, but so muggy this weekend, I got some light orange peel and some scratches from primer coat also showed up.

can I wet color-sand the base to smoothen it out and if so, 1000, 1600, 2000 grit? or will the clearcoat hide this?

Can a flat clear coat be wet-sanded?

TIA.

sand the color all you want with 600...but you'll have to apply more. Clear doesn't hide much.

A flat clear can't be touched unless you plan on re-applying.

[Bones]

thanks, DP.

I'm hoping by this weekend she will be all back together.

[Blue]

A flat clear can't be touched unless you plan on re-applying.

So, I just painted my metal monster tank in an attempt to replicate the "dark" paint scheme (tank I was painting came with the stock dark paint with a metallic ghost flame over spray). 
Everything was working out really well until the end.  The flat clear coat that I was applying started to "fog" out of the nozzle while I was finishing up.  The result is a light dusting effect on the tank in a couple of places.  Is there no hope?  I had thought about sanding or using a rubbing compound, but I thought I would check here first.  Using a finger I can wipe some of it off; ideas?
Thanks.

[Bones]

is this from a rattlecan?

If so, I had the same problem in some spots and I was able to just use my hand to rub off the textured spots where the clear dried before making contact.   just make sure its well dried before you do it.

 

[Blue]

is this from a rattlecan?

If so, I had the same problem in some spots and I was able to just use my hand to rub off the textured spots where the clear dried before making contact.   just make sure its well dried before you do it.

Cool, thanks for the information and yes, this is from a rattle can.  I bought the bike with a "custom" paint job on the tank (see flames in my previous post).  It may be cool to some, but it isn't for me.  I wanted to see what the bike looked like matte black as it was originally.  If I like the color, I am planning on having it professionally done this winter. 
I really like gloss black, though...
<looks in the garage at the gloss black truck and other the gloss black motorcycle>

Oh and how long should I wait after painting before I give the bike a bath?

[scott_araujo]

You can sand the flat clear lightly once it's dry and then recoat with the same.  If you just sand or use rubbign compound it probably won't match the final finish on the rest of the tank.

Scott

[dbran1949]

I really like gloss black, though...

Also a fan of the gloss black

[Blue]

Here are a few photos of the new paint job.  
DupliColor T090
Krylon Matte Clear
I waited a week after painting to handle the tank, put it back on the bike and to wash the whole bike.  
It is not a perfect match; a bit lighter than the stock dark matte on the bike (front fender).  
I did this to see if I like the dark or if I want to go with gloss black (professional, two-stage).  I am out about $25 for two cans of paint, one can of clear and a quart of acetone to remove the custom flame job.  It took no more that 3 hours total; 2 hours preparing the tank and an hour painting.  Of course, there was the week that I could not ride (this bike).