Keeping my S2R 800 going and healthy. Winter small things, again ...

[greenmonster]

.Which bearing?

In altcover, were crank ends. Remove cover plate, you'll see it.

[stopintime]

In altcover, were crank ends. Remove cover plate, you'll see it.

Ok, but there is no ugly sound there. The sound is two inches from that bearing. Maybe the sound travels before it reaches the surface....

I'm also waiting for the shop to chime in.

[stopintime]

The shop had a good look this July. Removed flywheel too. Nothing bad. Put it back together - same sound. The remaining theory is that the clearances rings/cylinder walls are big enough to make the pistons move/float just enough to start vibrations.

They also changed the clutch. I now have the smoothest clutch ever made. Fantastic! Surflex 

[koko64]

Excellent re clutch.
Piston slap diminish when motor hot?

[stopintime]

We used to cut grooves in the steel to have less judder/grabbing. That works well, but this is another world.

Heat doesn't do much to the noise.

[stopintime]

I'm trying to locate the source of a singing noise, from 4,000 revs and up. Made an attempt with my new stethoscope and got higher pitched noise, not louder, on the horizontal cam cover and the front+upper part of the generator cover.

The search didn't find anything wrong. For now, the theory is worn rings/cylinder walls - producing this noise.

If next year's possible cylinder + pistons replacement happens - we'll know.

[ducpainter]

Maybe fin ring?

How about trying to source some 'hockey pucks' and jamb them between the cylinder fins?

[stopintime]

Maybe fin ring?

How about trying to source some 'hockey pucks' and jamb them between the cylinder fins?

That was the mechanic's first suggestion. Full new set (probably made of floor vinyl or similar), but no sound change. His 'large screw driver to the ear' method resulted in an audible noise on the cylinder wall. My stethoscope only pointed me towards two areas - just in front and just behind the horisontal cylinder. 

[ducpainter]

It was a thought...

shows you where thought will get you.

[stopintime]

It was a thought...

shows you where thought will get you.

Good thought though - Ducati did the puck thing to reduce the sound in exactly that area, so actually a little strange that different puck set ups didn't change the sound.... or maybe it did, but we didn't discover how/where.

[koko64]

Noise from the front and back of the cylinder is consistent with "piston rocking" causing slap of the piston skirt against the barrel.
Or not.

[Howie]

Can't tell from the video, but piston slap is light compared to rod knock, at least twice as fast and can also be more of a rattle.  Also this 

Noise from the front and back of the cylinder is consistent with "piston rocking" causing slap of the piston skirt against the barrel.
Or not.

It will often get quieter as the engine warms up since clearances tighten.  You might try a heavier oil and see if that reduces the noise.  Over time piston slap will cause damage.

[stopintime]

As explained to me, this is normal when clearances get too wide. Condition and clearances (rings and cylinder walls) were measured last year and said to be on their last two years.

I run 15/50 semi synthetic. Semi because of the clutch. Heavy because of air cooled tuned engine.

[stopintime]

From another thread (about wheel stripes)

I know I've read your long thread detailing your bike before but I feel like we need another one. You ride so much your bike literally isn't the same bike you started with. You have more miles on that bike than I have on my daily driver car that I have owned for 19 years.


For me, the bike feels more and more mine and more and more complete, personal, together, soul'y and closer to completely custom. It's not untouched. It's legally the same bike, but most parts have been exchanged and/or modified.

The list:

Original, untouched parts:
EDIT spring 2022

• Linkage rocker and height adjuster rod (rod later 2022)
  rear brake master, caliper, fluid cup, light switch, hose and bracket
  electric boxes handle bar, both sides
  regulator/rectifier (yes!)
  battery tray
  ignition lock and seat lock (later 2022)
  tank prop rod (did not lose it!!!)
  under-seat plastic tray
  helmet locking wire (did not lose it!!!)
  front wheel axle (as far as I remember)
  chain slider (did not wear it down)(despite 14 t)
  side stand bracket
  starter
  belt wheels and rubber behind them
  ignition sensor
  valve rocker arm axles
  throttle bodies, injection, hoses and pressure regulator
  ~20 misc bolts
  
  
  
  
  Original, but modified parts:
  
  air box and open lid
  seat pan
  front fender, DIY painted
  swingarm, painted (replaced 2022)
  gear box, but exchanged output shaft
  gear change mechanism
  crank shaft, lightened and balanced
  cylinders, 1 x bore + 1 x honed (new 2022)
  

[stopintime]

Soon another winter gone.

Still things to do, but some progress and a couple lessons learned.


The swingarm's right side axle hole wears during +200K km. Who knew....  I had a spare. Red is good, right?  

I'm going to have a good fight with the bung/screw/plug in the exhaust (where the O2 sensor could go). I need it in the new mid-pipes.

Paint damages became really bad last fall. Small holes + water + frost = horrible flaking. No time or money to have it professionally done. Lesson; finer than 300 to get deep without stripes, circle movements, at least one coat wet/glossy, don't sand after just a day (paint not cured) - the final job with 2,000-2,500 paper and polish was well done, but too late to save a satisfactory result. No crisis - a local painter will do a good job next winter.