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Author Topic: 2014 version .. Fuel pump not priming  (Read 23461 times)
cbcanada
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« Reply #30 on: September 05, 2014, 05:20:17 AM »

This is great!! Thank you ! I am assuming ducati bond can be had at the ducati dealer?
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ducpainter
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« Reply #31 on: September 05, 2014, 05:23:28 AM »

Ducati Bond wouldn't be my choice for a fuel proof/resistant repair.

Maybe it works...but for how long?
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cbcanada
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« Reply #32 on: September 05, 2014, 05:24:32 AM »

2 questions

1. Does ducati sell that plastic component as a seperate piece?

2. If i dont put the plastic component back on. Is there a draw back? I see some duc models have no plastic at all attached to the flange.
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2 Wheel Wanderer
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« Reply #33 on: September 05, 2014, 09:48:04 AM »

Ducati Bond wouldn't be my choice for a fuel proof/resistant repair.

Maybe it works...but for how long?

Hmmm, ok, I do have some Caswells somewhere in the garage. I'll have to find it and reseal the wires.
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ducpainter
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« Reply #34 on: September 05, 2014, 09:59:12 AM »

Hmmm, ok, I do have some Caswells somewhere in the garage. I'll have to find it and reseal the wires.
Much better choice.

Don't thin it...use as packaged and it should level, but not run out of the joint.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
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"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


cbcanada
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« Reply #35 on: September 08, 2014, 09:31:16 AM »

Okay i have followed the instructions in this thread and taken the flange apart. And carved out the putty.. The red wire was disconnected.

So here is my question

1. Should i carve out the whole thing an re-solder all?

2. Should i check the fuel filter is so how, or just replace it since i am here?

3. The metal clamps that were hold in the hoses. Should i reorder oem or can i use any metal hose clamp?

Any tips appreciated



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iltl32
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« Reply #36 on: September 08, 2014, 11:48:23 AM »

1.  Yes.  If another wire fails you'll have to go back in and do it again.  I had 2 or 3 bad wires on mine.  You probably don't need to remove every last drop of the old epoxy but get as much as you can since it's fuel-soaked.  You don't want much in there and definitely none touching the wires.

2.  I don't know how to check it but I just replaced mine.  It was like 12 bucks I think for the aftermarket brand.  Worth not having to take the tank off again for a while IMO.

3.  You have to use metal that can handle being submerged in fuel.  Stainless steel will work.  Many clamps you buy (like the ones from harbor freight) contain Zinc, which cannot be used.  If you're unsure what yours are made out of I would order new ones.

Tips:  I would keep an eye on the connections on the other end of the tank, the heat of soldering my loosen them.  I don't remember if I had that problem or not but I've seen it mentioned.  Also when I plugged mine in to test it, I had to pull pretty forcefully on the connector to release it again.  This sudden jerk of force pulled the wires out and I had to re-solder again, so yeah... watch for that.
« Last Edit: September 08, 2014, 11:49:55 AM by iltl32 » Logged

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cbcanada
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« Reply #37 on: September 08, 2014, 01:16:14 PM »

Okay so i I am going to carve out both sides and check on all of the connections and then fill them up

the problem is the only thing I can find locally is called permi tex which is supposedly safe against all types of feel has anyone used this before
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cbcanada
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« Reply #38 on: September 08, 2014, 03:06:22 PM »

Well i tried to carve out the exterior epoxy but after drilling a couple of holes i realized it does not crumple out like the interior. I will leave that and fill in the holes i drilled.

The bigger problem is i tried to solder the broken wires back on in the interior side but could not get in there to do the job.

I will take it to an appliance repair shop tomorrow and ask them to do it.
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iltl32
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« Reply #39 on: September 08, 2014, 06:17:31 PM »

Oh I misunderstood.  Yeah, no need to carve out the dry side of the flange.  Maybe fill in the drill holes so you don't get any moisture in them.
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cbcanada
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« Reply #40 on: September 09, 2014, 03:06:48 AM »

Oh I misunderstood.  Yeah, no need to carve out the dry side of the flange.  Maybe fill in the drill holes so you don't get any moisture in them.

Thats the plan. I will be using permatex to fill them
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2 Wheel Wanderer
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« Reply #41 on: September 09, 2014, 12:23:43 PM »

I ended up digging all the epoxy out of the interior side of the plug and resoldered all wires.

I took off the ring that held the plug in the flange and popped the plug out. Then I put a little paper towel around it(so it wouldn't get scratched) and put it in a vice so I could solder and reseal hands free. I resealed with Caswells, I just happened to have it in my garage.
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cbcanada
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« Reply #42 on: September 10, 2014, 02:45:41 AM »

I dug it all up.. Did all 4 wires and filled it with JB MARINE WELD. Which by the way takes a loooooong time to cure.

I picked up a new fuel filter too.  I had to break the hose clamp tabs though ,  can i use any sort of clamp here? Or it has to be specific that weird ducati oem ones
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ducpainter
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« Reply #43 on: September 10, 2014, 02:56:12 AM »

Ant stainless steel hose clamp will be fine
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


SpikeC
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« Reply #44 on: September 10, 2014, 09:28:46 AM »

 Once you have purchased the tool, the Otiker clamps are soooo easy to use! And they are easily available at auto parts places as well.
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Spike Cornelius
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